Maca and Luxe are two new restaurants we recently reviewed. They both look different, but share the same love of providing imaginative comfort food with good service.
The look of Luxe reminds you of restaurants along Sydney’s harbourfront, with its clean cosy vibe and understated slightly Nordic-inspired decor (even though it’s located in the Keong Saik enclave). The food might also remind you a little of modern Aussie cuisine, as it is helmed by acclaimed chef Chui Lee Luk, and Singapore is the Luxe group’s first foray overseas from Australia.
While the Luxe cafés in Sydney have built up a loyal following with their artisanal baked goods, all-day breakfasts and gourmet roasted coffee, Luxe Singapore is a more sophisticated proposition – serving contemporary Australian fare with a nod to head chef Chui’s Asian roots. (Pastries still feature in meals, like this handmade pork and fennel sausage roll).
To create cuisine relevant to Singapore, the menu pays particular attention to include tropical ingredients, as well as produce from around the region, and is tied to regional rather than Western seasons, like this wild spinach pie with fennel slaw.
The pandan madeleines? Accompanied by coconut jam – again, a cute and clever fusion we liked. Another to try is the cauliflower with sunflower seeds, and the grilled octopus with chef Chui’s XO sauce. Prices for appetisers start from $8, while mains range from $12 to $45.
There’s a cosy lounge/living room area to greet visitors when you first enter, and your next sight of the restaurant is the large bar that dominates one side of the interior. It’s great for happy hours and serves a variety of cocktails in the style of spritzers – perfect for our weather. Verdict? A thumbs up for the vibe (pretty), the service (very friendly and welcoming) and the food (comforting with surprising touches). That’s a lot of thumbs, we’ve lost count.
Luxe Singapore, 1 Keong Saik Road, #01-04, tel: 6221-5615
Maca’s style is a bit more raw and edgy, with unfinished elements of concrete, marble and bricks. A feature wall dressed in graffiti and an origami installation reflects the unexpected flavours on the plates. A long marble bar marks the importance of the relationships Maca aims to foster around food – communal dining.
Maca’s menu offers a humble selection of contemporary entrees and sharing plates. Head chef Rishi Naleendra creates dishes that settle somewhere between comfort food and experimental cuisine. The seasonal menu this summer includes chargrilled baby octopus with smoked miso (great texture and taste), the pan-seared mackerel with bonito butter, and our favourite the smoked swordfish belly (above), with just the perfect lightness of touch and tenderness.
The ceviche of Argentinean prawns with black tomato is perhaps emblematic of the strength and folly of the kitchen, because you have to get used to it not looking or tasting like ceviche, but it’s still a worthy dish. So depending on how you look at it, order a classic dish but don’t expect it to turn out the way you’d imagine.
What was also unexpected was the offer of some whisky from restaurant manager Irene Chow. When she found out I was a fan, she showed off her special stash (gift from a friend) and offered me a dram – that’s what whisky lovers do. If I hadn’t mentioned the restaurant service earlier, well, this beautiful gesture says it all. (Does not mean all of you will partake of secret stashes though!).
The drinks menu boasts a stable of premium wines from France, Italy, Spain and Australia. And our plates were paired with their delectable range of premium sake offerings – there’s enough here to make any Japanese oyadama very happy.
Dessert? It ranges from the burnt pear with caramel yoghurt, to the blackberry ice cream with coconut cream. Portions are substantial, so be grateful that the dishes you had earlier were communal and shared. Verdict: It’s still early days, but there were no misses, which means we’re likely to head back when the lunch menu is ready. Plus, the patio is a lovely place to do happy hour.
MACA, 56 Tanglin Road (yes, where the Singpost building is), #B1-01, Tel: 6463-8080. Weekday dinner only (closed on Tuesday), and Sunday is full day dining with a special lamb roast.