As of press time, the legendary French fashion house of Dior is without a creative director; its search for a successor to Raf Simons still in progress. If that’s a problem, it didn’t show in the brand’s Autumn Winter 2016 collection presented at Paris Fashion Week.
The work of the in-house design team led by Lucie Meier and Serge Ruffieux – both said to be Simons’ aides during his three-year-plus reign at the maison – the collection was a loving ode to the house codes that surprised at the same time. Think the brand’s signature lily of the valley motif rendered in various couture finishes – prints, embroidery, jacquard, sometimes all at once – on mini empire waist dresses to bar jacket-skirt suits. Or masculine tailoring fabrics – another favourite of Monsieur Dior – on ladylike silhouettes, complete with the (only) shoe of the season: slim, tomboy-ish lace-up boots with cut-outs on the sides (they come in low block or high stiletto heels options).
Here, Dior gives Female an exclusive behind-the-scenes look at the collection, with backstage photos by Kevin Tachman. Editor Noelle Loh reports.
The era’s conservative, ladylike sensibilities were most apparent in the skirt suits yet felt fresh and youthful, thanks to a playful
mix of various house codes. In this case, the bar jacket, lily of the valley motif, and leopard prints.
The brand’s penchant for floral motifs was realised through a mix of various techniques, including prints and bead work.
Oversized tailored silhouettes lend masculine edge and a cool effortlessness. As the show notes put it, the Dior woman of the season is “free, dynamic, current and intuitive”.
There’s only one style – sexy lace-up booties – that come in various finishes including coloured exotics, and two heel styles: low and block, or tall and spindly.
Besides the ’40s, the brand’s design team turned to work clothes for inspiration. The result of combining both influences: sparse, slightly boxy coats, suits and a funnel neck maxi dress that looks and feels both practical and romantically feminine.
No name as of press time, but it’s like an elongated, east-west version of the Lady Dior. Expect it to be everywhere next season.
Off-shoulder necklines lend a soft sensuality.
Think of it as an extra large travel wallet with a chain strap. You can carry it folded up or – as seen on the runway here – with the bottom two panels exposed.
Bright punchy shades add youthfulness and a sense of whimsy.
Lovingly nicknamed as such and inspired by one of Monsieur Dior’s most iconic sketches.
Like this? See editor Noelle Loh’s tribute to Raf Simons’ last collection for Dior.