It took just one season to propel Alessandro Michele from one of fashion’s most obscure names to become the industry’s teacher’s pet. Already, his brand of neo-romanticism, his playbook of vintage quirkiness and youthful reinvigoration of the house (just turn to the rad store decors and cool ad blitz) are a hit with editors, stylists and the street style set. It will be no surprise that his sophomore outing for Spring/Summer ’16 will be one of the season’s most highly watched shows.
#2: Daizy Shely
If Paris’s Kaiser is Karl Lagerfeld, Milan’s fairy godfather is Giorgio Armani. His Armani/Teatro showcase, now in its tenth edition, is the traditional platform to showcase rising names, and to be honest, have always been our cheat sheet to the emerging designers to bookmark. Past alumni include Stella Jean and Au Jour Le Jour, all of whom have gone on to do bigger things. His latest protege: 30-year-old Israeli-born Daizy Shely, who started her namesake label in Milan in 2011. Endorsed by the Vogue Italia in its “Who Is On Next?” competition for emerging designers last year, she brings that Kimbra-meets-Barbie aesthetic to the fore.
The Prada show is always like being in some art school/museum performance. Sand dunes one season, Hitchcockian back alley the next, a swimming pool… the list goes on. And the clothes are perfect characters for the stage Miuccia envisions. If the rubber envelope and marigold acrylic letters on the invite are any indication of what’s in store this season, our guesses are flitting between something along the lines of Gattaca, Solaris, The Fifth Element and Interstellar subplot. But then again, it’s Mrs P, and we might just be (pleasantly) surprised.
#4: Dolce & Gabbana
When the duo puts on a fashion show, it’s with a capital S. Just think of the models, mums and babies at the Fall/Winter ’15 show. The elaborate sets, the multitude of models and the eye-popping looks and accessories make Dolce & Gabanna one of the biggest fashion spectacles in Milan.
#5: Emilio Pucci
You know Massimo Giorgetti as the man who made MSGM as a printastic-street style staple contemporary label that’s now a US$40 million (S$57 million) empire. These days, you might know him as the new creative designer at Emilio Pucci, filling in the seat vacated by Peter Dundas. It’ll be exciting to see what the former DJ can do for the house known for its slinky, skin-baring numbers.
Main photo: Gucci