With their modern-street sensibilities, the duo injected an of-the-moment millennial cool into the decades-old New York establishment, and are leaving with a knockout punch. Easily the best collection in their year-long tenure at the label, S/S ’17 was inspired by the idea of a “neo-Soho”. What that’s translated into: utilitarian yet sexy sheer anoraks, power pinstripe suits with exaggerated shoulders, tailored minidresses with hoods and plunging necklines, and slick-meets-sporty jumpsuits (again complete with hoods). In other words, the DKNY of the future.
Former fashion school mates turned creative partners, the pair’s four-season run took the brand’s French ingenue aesthetic into art school rich girl territory, and S/S ’17 sees them updating the house codes with cool abandonment. Cue the label’s crest turned into sequinned logos on luxurious ribbed knits, while the stripes on the packaging of Ma Griffe – the brand’s first fragrance – spruce up swingy wrap skirts and sweaters.
A favourite of the intellectual set since founding the Italian label in 1994,
the designer’s finale showcases her abstract reimagination of utility-meets-femininity pure and simple. Think cocoon-shaped tops and coats in varying shades of white, more modernist takes on staples in monotone blue, mauve and sea foam, and – her interpretation of panniers – oversized twin pouches on belts. Meanwhile, her distinct vintage-style prints come with a romantic Impressionist quality this time.
This story first appeared in Female’s March 2017 issue.
Like this? Check out 5 things you need to know about Clare Waight Keller’s final collection for Chloe, 4 models who are quickly becoming the new streetstyle stars and the updated western trend that everyone will be wearing this season.