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Fashion

From DKNY To Carven, Here's Why We Will Miss These Fashion Designers

Fashion’s so fast and furious these days that a designer’s farewell would barely make one bat an eyelid, but that doesn’t make saying adios any easier – especially not when his/her swansong deserve an A+. Here, a tribute to the outgoing creative directors of S/S ’17 whom we heart.

Dao-Yi Chow (right) and Maxwell Osborne (far right) at DKNY

With their modern-street sensibilities, the duo injected an of-the-moment millennial cool into the decades-old New York establishment, and are leaving with a knockout punch. Easily the best collection in their year-long tenure at the label, S/S ’17 was inspired by the idea of a “neo-Soho”. What that’s translated into: utilitarian yet sexy sheer anoraks, power pinstripe suits with exaggerated shoulders, tailored minidresses with hoods and plunging necklines, and slick-meets-sporty jumpsuits (again complete with hoods). In other words, the DKNY of the future.

Alexis Martial and Adrien Caillaudaud (below left and right) at Carven.

Former fashion school mates turned creative partners, the pair’s four-season run took the brand’s French ingenue aesthetic into art school rich girl territory, and S/S ’17 sees them updating the house codes with cool abandonment. Cue the label’s crest turned into sequinned logos on luxurious ribbed knits, while the stripes on the packaging of Ma Griffe – the brand’s first fragrance – spruce up swingy wrap skirts and sweaters.

Consuelo Castiglioni (above) at Marni


A favourite of the intellectual set since founding the Italian label in 1994,
the designer’s finale showcases her abstract reimagination of utility-meets-femininity pure and simple. Think cocoon-shaped tops and coats in varying shades of white, more modernist takes on staples in monotone blue, mauve and sea foam, and – her interpretation of panniers – oversized twin pouches on belts. Meanwhile, her distinct vintage-style prints come with a romantic Impressionist quality this time.

This story first appeared in Female’s March 2017 issue.

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