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Exclusive: Erdem Moralioglu Shares His Inspirations Behind The Erdem x H&M Collaboration

Most high-street-meets-high-fashion collabs tap into the star designer’s archives, but Erdem’s H&M collection reflects what’s in now – all while staying true to its romantic spirit. In an exclusive interview ahead of the Nov 2 launch, designer Erdem Moralioglu tells us more.

erdem x H&M

It’s “Economy Conscious”

“There’s no compromise on quality (despite the prices, which range from $44.95 to $449 here). It was amazing to introduce H&M to many of the small mills that I use to make my own collections. I wanted this to be a collection that you can wear for years.”

It’s Highly Personal And Nostalgic – One Of Fall/Winters 2017’S Key Moods

“(The menswear) made me think about what I wore growing up – things like an old Norwegian sweater from high school, which led to the graphic take on the Fair Isle sweater. This made me think about what my twin sister Sara wore, and how she would wear a fleece over vintage tea dresses – something I’ve always thought was so cool. Then I remembered my mother putting our father’s tweed blazer over her shoulders when she drove us to school, and the structured handbags she carried in photos from the ’60s… (I also) returned to my own work and reappropriated them. The sun-ray plisse dress reference is from my very first collection, while the Victorian button loops used as a trim detail are from a collection I did three years ago.”

erdem x H&M

This shirt with a ruffled collar turns up in both the men’s ($139) and women’s ($109) collections.

It Celebrates Early ’90s, Kitschy Pop Culture

“Growing up as a teenager in Canada, I loved Twin Peaks, and two of the mohair sweaters in the women’s collection are very much inspired by (the ones worn in the show). I (was also influenced by) the narrative of Pet Shop Boys’ Being Boring video that was shot by Bruce Weber – all these young people invading a country house mansion and dressing up. The idea of playing with a wardrobe – that contrast of girls in ballgowns and trainers – felt interesting and relevant.”

erdem x H&M

The collection’s versatility was inspired by the youthful playfulness depicted in Pet Shop Boys’ Being Boring video.

Expect A Fresh Take On His Signature Florals

“I’m fascinated by things that imply femininity, whether it’s lace or flowers or a certain silhouette. Flowers are something I always return to, and always seem fresh to me. Here, I’ve used many different floral prints, playing with ideas of scale and formality… It was also fascinating to see how flowers worked on men’s clothing.”

erdem x H&M

Sequinned slip dress, $349, and leather bag, $399

Influences from Erdem’s own Fall 2006 debut can be seen in the likes of this sun-ray plisse top (below) ($119).

erdem x H&M

Twin Peaks Photo Everett Collection

This story first appeared in Female’s November 2017 issue.

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