Patcharavipa Bodiratnangkura, founder of fine jewellery label Patcharavipa
Starting the brand in 2014, the Bangkok-born, Central Saint Martins-trained designer is an insider favourite for her glamorous-meets-industrial aesthetic with her organic-looking pieces. Recently, the label debuted its latest collection at Dover Street Market Singapore.
Convertible jewellery should be the new normal
“I like something that’s versatile, which is why I think transformable jewellery is smart. It’s like having a skirt that you can wear as a tube top, or a men’s shirt that can be worn as a dress. It’s beneficial for someone to spend a certain amount of money on a piece of jewellery and have the option of wearing it in different ways. For instance, our Polki hoop earrings come with rose-cut sapphire charms that can be detached and worn as pendants.”
Traditional, hand-done techniques will always be relevant
“Fact is, these age-old techniques last. A lot of my designs are done by hand and use [techniques such as] age-old four-prong setting, enamelling, and cabochon setting. Our latest Ginkgo Metrics collection features imperfect imprints inspired by the Japanese art of flower pressing. These patterns were developed on the computer, but executed by hand. Mixing the new with the old gives the pieces personality and a richer tactile quality.”
There’s no gender divide when wearing jewellery
“Gender is generally fluid in fashion and art. There is no control in what’s right or wrong. You have to be open-minded and accept the fact that a ring can look better on a man than a girl. [This philosophy] comes naturally when I design. Even when I don’t think of the designs as masculine, our male customers show that they can be so.”
Gold is more attractive than diamonds
“At least in my opinion. Diamonds aren’t that rare, but are something that women want. I like gold more. It can be bent into many designs – you can make a chair out of gold – whereas a diamond can only be cut into a certain silhouette and geometry. My designs feature a type of 18K gold called Siam gold that we create and mould in Thailand, featuring a hue that’s not so yellow.”
Titanium is cool
“It’s light and is used to build aeroplanes. I used it once for a three-piece collaboration with (Swiss jewellery maison) Adler in 2012. In its white form, it looks a little like platinum and has a very nice colour. The weight – us jewellers always talk about weight and how it feels when you wear it – is also nice.”
The subdued shade of gold, dubbed Siam gold, is specially mixed in Thailand.
The designer’s mantra to accessorising now: Experiment, and don’t be afraid to stack your pieces and play with proportions.
Her designs blend the tactile quality of traditional hand-done goldsmithing with a modernist architectural eye.
This story first appeared in Female’s July 2018 print issue.