Is winter coming already? Well, not till 2019. Till then, die-hard fans can channel GOT chic with Belgian luxury bag label Delvaux’s Holiday capsule line. Inspired by the hit TV series and starring its signature Brillant top-handle bag, the Couture Exclusive Collection combines a medieval aesthetic with artisanal craftsmanship to create four limited edition bags, and matching bag straps, charms and a clutch (prices unavailable).
Among them: the “Queen’s Desire” (watch the video) with brass details – created by Swiss clockmakers – that have been galvanised in France. And it seems, had it not been for the brand’s artistic director recent obsession with the show, this highly elaborate collection would not have happened. In an exclusive interview, we speak to the woman herself on how this story began.
One would not associate GOT with being particularly festive. What made it perfect for Delvaux’s holiday collection?
“The Couture Exclusive Collection is the continuity of the F/W ’17 collection, which is both chivalrous and triumphant, embracing medieval accents that let us think of armours and Viking furs. With my great sudden love for the GOT series, we went even a step further for the Holiday Collection. The characters of this series, the costumes, the accessories and the sceneries inspired me to create a tribute to them. I could immediately link the metallic aspects, sculpted ornaments, jewellery-like elements and the preciousness of the materials of this series to the collection. And it is also funnier to be transported in another atmosphere than being surrounded by Christmas trees, Christmas balls and stars.”
On a scale of 1 to 10, how big of a Game of Thrones fan are you?
“I would say 8! I’m so looking forward to the next season. My favourite character is Daenerys Targaryen, Dragon’s Queen. She embodies the expression “an iron fist in a velvet glove”. Dragon’s Queen is very young and gentle but she can also be cruel in order to make good causes. She’s an outstanding woman, a determined person, but she also has her doubts and hesitations. Having doubts is a proof of intelligence. You know what you are capable of but, at the same time, you are aware of your weaknesses.”
There are plenty of savoir faire involved in the making of the bags. Would you say this is the most elaborate collection that Delvaux has ever done?
“Delvaux is more well-known for its traditional craftsmanship, architectural, graphic and simple design. The Couture Exclusive Collection is our very first couture collection and I wanted it to be very exclusive and sophisticated. With its embellishments, embroideries and the buckle inspired by an ex-voto, this collection represents the most refined savoir-faire that Delvaux ever created.”
I read that the Queen’s Desire features brass detailing fabricated by Swiss clockmakers and galvanised in France. Could you explain a little how that even started?
“The process starts with the creation of thin brass tubes made by watchmakers in Switzerland.
Underneath the tubes, the pattern is drawn with a laser on the bag patterns to make the embroidery
possible. Once the embroidery has been done, the bag is assembled. The embroidery process takes
eight hours to finish. At the beginning, the idea was to use “cantille” a kind of embroidery using metallic strands. As Delvaux is so intransigent on the quality — it is our leitmotiv — we couldn’t use the strands because of their fragility. To ensure our quality, we decided to look for something safer which has the look and the delicacy of this embroidery. This is how we started co-working with a watchmaker in Switzerland.”
If you have to choose one piece from this collection as your favourite, which would it be?
“I cannot decide between my two favourites: the Black Beauty and the Golden Glory. I would choose
the Black Beauty for its “rockmantic” look. This bag is so precious with the very delicate
embroidery on the lizard skin and at the same time, it is so powerful. The other one would be our
Golden Glory for its flamboyant style. For the first time, Delvaux reinvented the D-shape buckle,
which looks like an ex-voto which is a type of a religious offering given to fulfil a vow. I really love the stingray effect which looks like caviar.”
You once said in an interview that your role as creative director at the brand is “an evolution” and your goal is to write a new chapter. How would you describe the evolution of Delvaux and what is the next chapter for it?
“I joined the company in 2011 and has been artistic director for the past three years. My vision hasn’t changed with the time, I am not in charge of reinventing the house but I am here as a relay. I take the bridging from the person who was in charge before me and my concern is to remain faithful to the essentials values of Delvaux. I add my personal touch to those values as audacity, offset and some new modernity but without being fashionable as this is not who we are.”
Since we’re on the topic of legends and magic, could you describe what your fantasy Delvaux bag would be like?
“My fantasy bag would be to recreate a top hat. For an anecdote, I have a collector’s item bag out of the archives of (’70s French accessories designer Isabel Canovas who designed for brands like Hermes and Louis Vuitton). It’s an upside-down top hat in black satin with a rabbit’s head with a zip. The handles are the rabbit’s ears.”
Like this? Watch what happens when we put Oon Shu Ann Joanna Dong, Sam Rui and more in some of this season’s most festive looks, check out this Insta-want gift list, and the best-dressed folks spotted at Lumine’s opening.
