The woke, 21st century woman who laps up current fashion affairs (Bottega Veneta’s resuscitation a long time coming; new Celine channels old Celine, hard, for F/W ;19) as much as she does real world matters (can fashion truly be sustainable? will it really do better after the recent Blackface incident?) will probably find herself in a catch-22 these days. As much as a sequin-drenched frock would delight one’s visceral nature, turning up in say, Halpern, to a friend’s dinner party is no longer just means to trumpet bold personal style, spending power, or an insider palate — it’s also an individual’s ballot to its designer’s discernment with regards to such aforementioned issues. Swiss designer Kevin Germanier — with his beaded confections in dusk-to-dawn silhouettes — offers up just that.

Though just a year into his eponymous label Germanier (it’s already on the LVMH Prize 2019 shortlist), the make of the Central Saint Martins graduate’s garments belie its fledgling status: the label’s commitment to upcycling can be traced back to the threads and individual adornments used; the intricate craft involved to achieve a dress like the above, by hand, said to be more time-efficient by way of new techniques conceived at the brand. And while the idea of Germanier (when distilled into party-ready embellished garments) seems a tale as old as time, it’s the favouring of sharp, precise lines contrasted by a judicious haphazardness in its drape that sets it apart — not forgetting, it doubles up as the conversation fodder you’re looking for at your next shindig.

Images: Instagram (@kevingermanier)

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