The Invisible Man
Martin Margiela may be one elusive dude, but here’s what he’s up to now: working with Paris’ Palais Galliera for his first retrospective in the city. The Margiela/Galliera, 1989-2009 exhibition (March 3-July 15) will showcase his body of work that spans the years from his debut to his retirement. Featuring more than 100 archive pieces, videos and installations, the event will chart his evolution from being the only Belgian designer of his time to start a fashion house in the French capital, to becoming a major influence for today’s generation of designers with his conceptual and iconic creations, such as repurposed vintage and recovered materials, and deconstructed garments.
Black Beauty
Between the Hadid sisters, Bella gets our vote as the cooler sibling. When asked by Tag Heuer to create a 500-piece limited edition timepiece, the 21-year-old opted for one from the brand’s sporty Link series (known for its ergonomic bracelet design), then gave it its edgiest facelift. Thanks to her, the piece ($5,500 francs, or S$7,540) now comes with a modern, matte black ceramic case and bracelet, a mother-of-pearl dial, and a bezel studded with 60 diamonds. The finishing touch: an engraving of her signature on the back of the case, of course.
Super Natural
Three years on, the Christophe Lemaire-led Uniqlo U line still sticks to its no-hype, high-tech and quality classics formula. The S/S ’18 range ($14.90-$199.90), which hits stores Jan 26, is awash in nature-inspired hues of emerald and cerulean. True to the Japanese retail giant’s DNA, there are also clever innovations, such as the lightweight, water-resistant and wind-proof Blocktech jacket, and swimwear that’s practically seamless.
Dog, It Dog
1 Embroidered nappa leather wallet, $1,150, Bottega Veneta 2 L.U.C XP Urushi 18K rose gold watch on alligator skin strap, $34,220, Chopard 3 Cotton T-shirt, Versace 4 Leather card case, $180, Diane von Furstenberg 5 Plastic iPhone 7 Plus phone case, $130, Moschino 6 Embroidered leather sneakers, $1,080, Gucci 7 Leather and canvas tote, Gucci 8 Nappa leather wallet, $620, Bottega Veneta. Prices unavailable unless stated
Poster Child
For the third time since 2016, Issey Miyake is launching a capsule collection ($330-$1,360) featuring the art of late Japanese designer Ikko Tanaka. The legendary graphic designer was known from the ’60s through the ’80s for gelling Modernism with a traditional Japanese aesthetic. The latest collection, in stores this month, interprets three of Tanaka’s trademark geometric artworks from 1972 to 1979 – Gradation Series (Letters and Characters), Work: Q Series, and Rope Series – as vibrant motifs on the brand’s signature pleated garments, sandals and bags.
Flats Pack
Google “Olivia Palermo” and “flats”, and it’s clear why her first capsule collection partnership with Pretty Ballerinas is a perfect fit. The highly photographed socialite has often been captured in flats, be it while walking her pooch or at glitzy events. Her tie-up with the Spanish footwear label has eight event-appropriate styles ($210-$330) – sneakers, mules, babouches and ballet flats – with the Ella polka dot mesh slides being her pick for the red carpet.
Swish Swish
Spring’s crop of fringed ready-to-wear pieces, as seen at Celine, Paco Rabanne, Nina Ricci et al, is no doubt Boomerang gold. For something more everyday, these bags are a good starting point – and conversation starters.
The Seven Year Switch
In 2011, British fashion designer Mary Katrantzou translated her maximalist aesthetic into a range of futuristic, stalactite-like jewellery with Atelier Swarovski. Now, for her S/S ’18 collection, she’s on a sophomore run with the jeweller. First seen at her show last September, the 13-piece outing ($449-$1,590) debuts this month at Tangs at Tang Plaza (Level 2), and features oversized earrings, bracelets and necklaces with crystals in custom degrade colours playfully suspended in rose and yellow gold-plated cages.
Brand To Know: Weihaoyong
Since launching last Spring, Sabah-born Aaron Yong Wei Hao’s eponymous label has been picked up by some of the world’s most fashion-forward multi-label stores (think Corso Como in Seoul and Shanghai, and A’maree’s and Blake in the US). The 23-year-old tells us why his clothes will appeal to modern women and the creative pack.
There’s an architectural edge to them “(There are Brutalist influences) in every collection. My signature grey colour palette is an homage to the raw concrete used in this architectural style. My construction features cuts formed using the most minimal amount of pieces, while respecting the flow of a garment, ensuring comfort, function and accentuation. It’s like how Brutalist buildings are usually built – with modular elements to create specific functional zones, then grouped into a unified whole.”
He likes to experiment with fabrics “The innovative materials used this season are the bonded paper tweed and the couture-esque linen organza (on palazzo pants and a trenchcoat). I have to state, though, that the collection also features luxurious, made-in-Japan materials, which we expertly played around with using various
construction methods.”
The knits are handmade in Japan “The intricate and irregular weave in our knits mean that they are impossible to be created using modern-day machinery. The vibrant yarns are hand-manufactured by a mill in Japan, and offer a burst of textures and colours to evoke a subtle sense of playfulness.”
They make ironing a breeze “I thought it’d be interesting to simplify the process of ironing. Thus came the idea of the ‘autofold’ line. (This series comprises) a jacket, shirt and dress; each pre-folded either into A3 or A4 size. The folding lines are then stitched on permanently, acting as a decorative guide for its user for easy ironing and packing.”
He’s super practical “I strive for versatility within an everyday wardrobe, with practical and hassle-free staples that don’t necessarily need constant or meticulous maintenance. A garment is supposed to enhance a person; to be presentable without overpowering the person. The S/S ’18 collection offers 45 garments, which can be perfectly mixed and matched given the subtle colour palette that barely clashes.”
Bullet Proof
Maria Grazia Chiuri looked to French-American conceptual artist Niki de Saint Phalle for inspiration this season, right down to her eyewear. Saint Phalle was famous for firing a rifle at suspended sacks of oil paint, spray cans, and even tomatoes over sculptures and canvases, as part of her performance art pieces in the early ’60s – the shooting glasses she wore while doing so inspire Dior’s latest shades. Launching this month, the retro-tinged styles include a visor, square frames, and an aviator-goggle hybrid pepped up with trendy tinted lenses.
Illustration Hisyam Abd Rahman
This story first appeared in Female’s February 2018 issue.
Like this? Check out these super pretty and sustainable straw bags, the local bohemian fashion brand that’s coming back to Singapore and why fashion is obsessed with all things plastic.
