After sending the international fashion set to a mountain in Kyoto last year, this year Louis Vuitton creative director Nicolas Ghesquiere opted for somewhere closer to home – Cannes, or to be precise, the private contemporary art museum Fondation Maeght. Here are our highlights of the show:

#1: The capsule collection with Grace Coddington

View this post on Instagram

Meow mix 😽🐊 #lvcruise

A post shared by @ nicolasghesquiere on

Former Vogue creative director Grace Coddington’s unexpected capsule collection of cat-shaped bags and small accessories was catnip for the fashion crowd. Perhaps it shouldn’t have come as too much of a surprise, Ghesquiere’s good friend is known for her love of felines. You can bet the collection will be in hot demand when it launches in October. And yes, that’s Coddington herself (above) in a pair of silk pyjamas from the collection

#2: The Archlight goes on steroids

Consider these the grown-up sister to the popular Archlight sneakers that first debuted in S/S’18 – they now come in various heights and colours (some even had painted abstract motifs) but the thigh-high models will probably be the most popular.

#3: Expect evolutions of Nicolas Ghesquiere “codes”

View this post on Instagram

Birdies by @nicolasghesquiere #LVCruise

A post shared by Agnes Le Coroller (@agnes_lc) on

In the five years Ghesquiere has been at Louis Vuitton, he’s established recognisable codes – quirky tailoring, ruffles and unexpected mix of fabrics (carried over from his days at Balenciaga). There is also a certain brand of romanticism, displayed best at the S/S’18 show, where he integrated 18th century attire effortlessly into 2018 language – those frock coats paired with silk boxer shorts and chunky sneakers? Genius. In this collection, it was clear that Ghesquiere was building on his existing lexicon for Louis Vuitton – the silk shorts have been updated with lace trims and the familiar boxy jackets and peasants’ blouse continued to have strong presence paired with those thigh-high sneakers-boots.

#4: The simpler looks work too

That said, some of my favourite looks were the ones that took on a simpler tack. Devoid of colour or gimmicks, their subtlety really stood out. I can see, for instance, Emma Stone in the pleated dress in the middle.

#5: The spectacular location – Fondation Maeght

Under Ghesquiere’s leadership, the Resort/Cruise shows have been held at various amazing art destinations around the world – last year’s venue was the I.M. Pei-designed Miho Museum in Kyoto and the year before that at the Oscar Niemeyer’s Niterói Contemporary Art Museum in Rio de Janeiro.

This year however, it’s the relatively obscure Fondation Maeght in southeast France, a private contemporary art museum set atop a hill that’s known for its rich and diverse bounty of works by some of the 20th century’s most important artists such as Joan Miro, Alberto Giacometti, Georges Braque, Alexander Calder and more.

While many brands stage grander shows during the Cruise/Resort season, I personally look forward to Louis Vuitton’s not just for its clothes (and accessories) but the spectacular settings they’re always held in.