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Fashion

Louis Vuitton Packs Its Pre-Fall Collection With Plenty Of House Firsts

We've got a preview of the transeasonal collection during a presentation in Bangkok. Here are our notes.

The Backstory

The Louis Vuitton Pre-Fall collection was like peeking into an edited version of the Nicolas Ghesquiere playbook. Sure, you’d get the intergalactic-meets-New Wave warrior princess aesthetic and the references to architectural shapes and couture silhouettes – like the kimono cuts on coats – that the man has so cleverly owned.

What We Love

But he takes a right turn into rustic and romantic territory, checking off a myriad references. For instance, there are cottagey Liberty prints created by the Louis Vuitton team from scratch which appears on ready-to-wear to It bags like the UFO-shaped Toupie. Then there is the nod to conservative Mormon fashion in the form of the lace and silk cape on jumpsuits and dresses. If diversity and inclusivity are buzzwords for any fashion house today, then perhaps this is Ghesquiere’s way of putting his creative stamp to those movements.

And who better to embody his idea of individual style than the 17 women who front the Pre-Fall lookbook? The message seems clear: No matter what’s your skin colour, height or shape, a woman can feel confident and strong in these clothes. There’s transgender actress Indya Moore of Pose fame in a sequinned trench coat and the 1.63m-tall R&B singer Kelela in an oversized tartan jacket, alongside the other star-studded cast like Chloe Grace Moretz and Michelle Williams.

The Season Debuts

Sharp-eyed critics will also notice a few new things and firsts within this collection. Look closer at the images of the look book and you’d notice something different about the familiar accessories. Ruth Negga hangs onto a Cannes handbag in a shiny red lacquer finish. Sophie Turner holds a Dauphine shoulder bag which seems to be decorated by tiny LV monograms. Here, we break down the details of all the firsts in this collection

The Monogram XS

Making its debut for Pre-Fall 2019, this line of monogrammed bags features the tiniest ever rendition of the LV motif. It’s a discreet option for those who want to toy with the branded merch logo. The collection spans just three bags this season, appearing on the Mini Dauphine shoulder bag, the Trunk clutch and the Alma BB tote.

The Monogram Giant

If the Monogram XS range features the tiniest LV prints, then this new line boasts the largest size of the LV logo. The Monogram Giant print is available across six leather goods categories: the Dauphine, the Cannes Bag, Petite Boite Souple, Speedy, Keepall and the new OnTheGo Tote. This giant print also appears on ready-to-wear, SLGs, shawls, and belts.

The Monogram Vernis

Riding on the trend of ’90s cult classic revivals is this monogram series in patent leather from 1997 that is best known for adorning Alma BB totes. Pre-Fall 2019 marks the first time that Nicolas Ghesquiere is using the flashy leather – just in black and red – on new classics such as the Toupie minaudiere, the Cannes handbag and the Petite Malle clutch.

The Be Mindful Capsule Collection

The brand dips its hand into sustainable fashion for the first time with this collection of accessories using reclaimed fabrics from scraps that are left over from production of its silk scarves. Among the designs that feature these are bracelets wrapped and the fringes on shawls which are made from upcycled silk twill – adding the perfect bohemian touch to these pieces.

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