Street style really took off as a phenomenon approximately a decade or so ago – started by bloggers such as The Sartorialist – and it’s only been amplified by platforms such as Instagram. In recent years, we’ve had trends such as normcore – and eventually, gorpcore – pretty much change the fashion landscape. Some of us got really sick of that utilitarian brand of fashion – namely one Marc Jacobs, who told WWD before his Fall 2018 show that there would be “no street-inspired clothes here”.
While we’re used to Marc Jacobs as one of the key shows at New York Fashion Week, he sent out a distinctive collection that would be one of the strongest proponents of the ’80s trend that’s just about everywhere for the upcoming Fall/Winter’18 season. We were recently in Taipei to check out the collection in person, here’s what we loved:
#1: It’s pure runway clothes
His inspiration for the collection? “These are runway clothes. I don’t know what happens afterward, but they’re runway clothes.” When so many other designers, especially those based in New York (you know who) doing that whole Celine-lite, deconstructed shirts thing, one appreciates a genuine singular point of view.
#2: There are wearable pieces
At first glance, it may seem like there’s hardly anything wearable on a daily basis in the collection. But having seen the collection up close, there’s many solid staples once you dissect the outfits, such as the oversized wool checkered suit in the middle, which perfectly nails the louche-meets-tailored look. Consider also the red oversized sweater on the right that was inspired by collegiate uniforms (a regular Marc Jacobs motif) which would go well with a long skirt.
#3: Accessories maketh the look
The wide-brimmed toppers made by longtime collaborator and renowned milliner Stephen Jones were a highlight of the collection – they featured in 45 outfits out of the 54-look collection. At the media preview, we were told that the colour of the hat’s underside were reportedly customised to match each outfit. As a hat person myself, I always feel that a hat completes a look and Marc Jacobs obviously subscribes to the same philosophy.
#4: It was a tribute (of sorts) to Yves Saint Laurent
Jacobs has long been known to mine the past for inspiration – hey, practically every designer does that – but the difference here is that he really went all out with this collection. Here, it was clear that he was referencing all the greats of the ’80s (Claude Montana and Mugler spring to mind) The late Yves Saint Laurent, giant of 20th century fashion, has long been cited by Jacobs as his key idol, and this collection explicitly recalled Saint Laurent in his heyday with its lurid colours, strong shoulders and explosion of ruffles.
#5: Celebrities are lapping it up
Leave it to Zendaya to rock this colour-blocked suit – but she’s not the only one either – Janelle Monae also wore Marc Jacobs to the recent Met Gala.