Lemaire has always been known for his subtlety – the man’s forte lies, most of all, in cut and minute detailing. But he also has exceptional taste in colour and in his latest collection, he displays masterly combinations of autumnal shades, mixing ochre, sunshine yellow, burnt sienna, emerald green. While I already adore Lemaire (who doesn’t?), the fantastic colours he’s introduced, along with the absolute ease in which he combined them, marks this collection as one of his best.
#2: Craig Green
Some may accuse Craig Green of being a one-trick pony (i.e. his silhouette, quilting and recurring drawstrings), but I personally find that his is a narrative that slowly evolves across seasons, and I love that it’s an antidote to the ever-increasing breakneck pace of fashion these days. The ornate prints that bedecked some of the ensembles came across as monastic and recalled Victorian stained glass windows – an allusion to the conservative moment sweeping the globe? There was a throbbing austerity to his clothes this season, but equally poetic was the way he chose to weave his references together.
#3: Louis Vuitton
Yes, the well-placed collaboration with Supreme (that’s sure to sell like hotcakes) aside, the clothes themselves showcased a far more grown up aesthetic. Although the styling skewed towards the youthful, the relaxed proportions and cuts meant that grown men will take to them very breezily. Plus, there were some styling tricks to take away from this show, including the ever-chic knotted belt, shown off by having one side of the shirts tucked in. It may not be a new trick, but it worked extremely well with the louche clothes.
Loewe’s menswear department may be only a relatively new and small addition to the Spanish house but just as he has revived the brand’s womenswear, wonderboy J.W. Anderson brings his strangely alluring touch to menswear as well. It may be more character-dressing for some, but I believe a successful story-telling convincingly brings the customer into the designer’s world, and the beautiful sepia-toned set allowed us to believe in this multi-faceted sea-faring-meets-countryside-meets British-teddy-boy.
Like this? Check out the most stylish lads at the men’s fall 2017 shows, (one of the most) convetable accessory of Spring 2017: Louis Vuitton’s iPhone covers and why the pantsuit is your new workwear staple.