If you’re a fashion fiend, you might recall that several New York brands opted out of showing in the city earlier this February during the Fall 2017 ready-to-wear shows – most prominent among them, Proenza Schouler and Rodarte.
Both chose to relocate to Paris, showing their Spring 2018 collections earlier than usual during the fall 2017 couture shows, which traditionally take place in Paris during July.
When I woke up this morning, my Instagram feed was inundated with stylists, celebrities and fashion industry insiders gushing over the beautiful images of a collection replete with flowers and delicate designs – Rodarte’s spring 2018 collection.
Now I’ve written earlier this year that the American brand’s spring 2017 collection was a super hit with celebrities such as Elle Fanning (that lavender princess gown Fanning wore to Cannes that everyone loved? Rodarte), Nicole Kidman and this year’s Oscar winner, Emma Stone.
Their Spring 2018 collection however, seems to take it to the next level. Let’s take a look at what went down:
#1: The show was filled to the brim with flowers
At first glance, the flowers looked to be lily of the valley (the extremely expensive but lovely seasonal flowers used in Kate Middleton’s wedding bouquet), but it’s actually baby’s breath. Yes, the humble posy often shunted as a filler was elevated to new heights by the Mulleavy sisters’ team, led by hairstylist Odile Gilbert and florist Joseph Free.
They were used in almost every permutation possible, from an old-school corsage to a stole/pashmina and of course, as hair adornments.
#2: The beauty look was au naturel
Whether it was the thick, bushy eyebrows, rosy, bitten lips or the stylishly tousled hairdo, the vibes that the Rodarte girls gave off felt very French countryside – in the best possible sense. The nails too came off extremely natural, adorned only with teeny flower prints.
#3: There were loads of light, delicate hues…
The familiar Rodarte motifs were all there – ruffled skirts, liberal use of tulle – but never before has it felt so straight up feminine and just plain pretty. Personally, I’m quite curious to see how these pieces translate off the runway – i.e. without all the romantic touches such as the flowers.
What I’m really confident about though, is that stars like Elle Fanning and Kirsten Dunst will probably already have marked down what they want to wear. Get ready for an onslaught of Rodarte on the red carpet. Emma Stone will also likely wear some of these pieces as well, given that her next film, Battle of the Sexes, releases in September.
#4: For those who like it dark and gothic
Of course, the Mulleavy sisters didn’t make their name entirely on pretty, feminine dresses – there’s always a dichotomy to their approach that distinguished them. Their often esoteric inspirations and small-scale, hands-on approach to their designs have led them become favourites of classic manic pixie girls such as Kirsten Dunst, who has long championed Rodarte. If you need a movie reference, think The Virgin Suicides – which is always the film I associate most with the Rodarte aesthetic and vibe.
Blood red is a colour that often appears as an accent in their collections and the designs above look as if they could be what a modern-day witch would wear.
#5: The finale gowns were spectacular
Rodarte tends to close its show with a trio of goddess gowns and this show continued the tradition with three asymmetrical, flower-embroidered gowns in red, white and nude with slight bridal tones. My favourite though, is the white piece – I can already see Nicole Kidman in that (please don’t let her pick the nude one…).
Of course, there’s the gorgeous setting – the Rodarte show was held at Paris’ Cloître Port Royal gardens, which only served to enhance the enchanting factor of the show. Quite frankly, this collection might just be the prettiest of the entire haute couture week. But we’ll see, it’s early days yet. Well done, Rodarte.
Like this? Check out why Rodarte is the under-the-radar favourite label with celebrities such as Nicole Kidman and Emma Stone, why Prada’s new limited edition T-shirt collection is what the Female team is eyeing up now, and fashion writer Keng Yang Shuen’s top shopping picks for the pink-loving girl.
Main image: @handinfire Instagram