Influenced by tailor Martin Greenfield and her time at Jason Wu, designer Xue Gao (Snow) puts a spin on men’s suiting with her signature draping technique, deconstructed detailing, exaggerated proportions and silhouettes which accentuate the feminine waistline. Versatility is also key to her designs, with a blazer that transforms into a skirt and a double-sided tailored coat that can be worn with a bright print, or more subtle colour. Nominated for the 2018 LVMH Prize and named one of Forbes Asia’s 30 Under 30, her eponymous label Snow Xue Gao — with a Spring/Summer ’17 debut collection — is the name you need to know now.
Snow grew up in China and often fuses Chinese elements with traditionally Western styles and fabrics, such as contrasting floral silk prints with Prince of Wales checks and a traditional qipao in wool. Her East-meets-West approach remains evident in her Fall/Winter ’19 collection — titled Dream of the Red Chamber — which showed at the Museum of Chinese in America during New York Fashion Week. Snow was inspired by Chinese artist Sun Wen and reimagined his work onto dreamy silk pyjama-like sets, and also sent out beautiful silk jacquard blazers and bold floral pant suits.
Main images: Snow Xue Gao