The “Spray-Printed” Coat
While avant-garde trench coats and luxurious parkas lead the charge as Spring’s major outerwear trend, a more artistic thread runs at two brands led by some of fashion’s favourite intellectual creatives. At Calvin Klein 205W39NYC, Raf Simons reimagines the couture silhouette of mid-century coats, updated with Pollock-esque paint splatters done by hand. At Miu Miu, Mrs Prada gives leather coats a stone-washed finish to recreate a well-worn patina.
The Millennial Ballerina Uniform
At Moncler Gamme Rouge, Giambattista Valli pays tribute to hiplet (a hybrid of hip-hop and ballet trending since last year) by pairing gauzy ballerina skirts with street-influenced, sleeveless puffers. Meanwhile, Miu Miu dances to an even edgier tune with a knit top and matching boy briefs peeking out from floaty, see-through slip dresses inspired by Riot Grrrls. Either way, ballet-inspired dressing gets a badass beat.
Artier, yet even more ironic- chic than the brash logos that came with last year’s tourist merch trend, these span everything from digital prints of volcanic rocks and glaciers inspired by Iceland’s rugged countryside (Issey Miyake), to scenery inspired by default desktop screen savers (Balenciaga). The former lends a romantic, painterly touch to voluminous separates in a new, softer pleated finish; the latter is plain fun on jeans.
The Jacquard Bra Top
This is what happens when you fashion the antique-y fabric into bustiers and bralets, and wear them the millennial street style way: over a comic print tee at Prada and a floral camp shirt at Maison Margiela.
The Raver Cocktail Dress
The top is a toga; the bottom, a wispy A-line midi skirt that guarantees ample, elegant movement. Far from classically ladylike though, it’s in glossy nylon at Calvin Klein 205W39NYC, and cheekily sheer with a thigh-high slit and midriff cut-out at Fendi.
The “Cult” Maxi Dress
Like a sophisticated, oversized take on a robe/poncho that makes up for its lack of details with dramatic movement, it’s best served up by the queens of discreet chic: the Olsen Twins at The Row (it comes in gossamer silk), and Celine’s Phoebe Philo (hers is trimmed with leather).
The Modern Mob Suit
Okay, so the suit is really all ’90s-inspired tailoring: relaxed, smart, minimalist. What makes it “gangster” is the shirt that it’s paired with: punctuated by a wide spread collar, best associated with the mafia in movies from the time. The latter adds character, but you still want things trendy and sophisticated. The solution proposed by Victoria Beckham and Joseph: go neutral and tone on tone.
The Rain Blouson
Beyond the season’s major plastic trend, a handful of labels are experimenting with water-resistant materials. Elevating such “bad weather gear” are Calvin Klein 205W39NYC and Celine, which play with couture-style volume and gathers. Even more impressive is the latter’s choice of fabric: buttery soft calfskin that’s been treated to be water-repellent.
Wet Look Ombre
Both Yasuko Furuta of Toga and American sportswear guru Michael Kors get bitten by the blue ombre bug, and reinterpret the look with a fun, futuristic eye. Besides silk tops that appear to be seeped in baby blue paint on the bottom half, the former offers up transparent plastic skirts with the same “drip dye” effect. Kors’ take is more glamorous, finished entirely in sequins for a sleek, aqueous effect, and paired with a Snowdon blue boyfriend shirt. Talk about “good ombres”.
The ’90s Power Party Dress
Ruched, often cut on the bias and utterly sexy, it was what Tom Ford minted during his Gucci years; ditto the late Gianni Versace when he was at the helm of his eponymous label. This season, both brands bring back the look, with Ford’s on an ’80s bent with exaggerated shoulders, and Versace’s pretty and loyal tribute in pastel-hued velvet.
Catwalk Photos Showbit.com
This story first appeared in Female’s February 2018 issue.