micro trends
From left to right: Calvin Klein 205W39NYC, Miu Miu

The “Spray-Printed” Coat

While avant-garde trench coats and luxurious parkas lead the charge as Spring’s major outerwear trend, a more artistic thread runs at two brands led by some of fashion’s favourite intellectual creatives. At Calvin Klein 205W39NYC, Raf Simons reimagines the couture silhouette of mid-century coats, updated with Pollock-esque paint splatters done by hand. At Miu Miu, Mrs Prada gives leather coats a stone-washed finish to recreate a well-worn patina.

micro trends
From left to right: Moncler, Miu Miu

The Millennial Ballerina Uniform

At Moncler Gamme Rouge, Giambattista Valli pays tribute to hiplet (a hybrid of hip-hop and ballet trending since last year) by pairing gauzy ballerina skirts with street-influenced, sleeveless puffers. Meanwhile, Miu Miu dances to an even edgier tune with a knit top and matching boy briefs peeking out from floaty, see-through slip dresses inspired by Riot Grrrls. Either way, ballet-inspired dressing gets a badass beat.

micro trends
From left to right: Balenciaga, Issey Miyake

Panoramic Prints

Artier, yet even more ironic- chic than the brash logos that came with last year’s tourist merch trend, these span everything from digital prints of volcanic rocks and glaciers inspired by Iceland’s rugged countryside (Issey Miyake), to scenery inspired by default desktop screen savers (Balenciaga).  The former lends a romantic, painterly touch to voluminous separates in a new, softer pleated finish; the latter is plain fun on jeans.

micro trends
From left to right: Prada, Maison Margiela

The Jacquard Bra Top

This is what happens when you fashion the antique-y fabric into bustiers and bralets, and wear them the millennial street style way: over a comic print tee at Prada and a floral camp shirt at Maison Margiela.

micro trends
From left to right: Fendi, Calvin Klein 205W39NYC

The Raver Cocktail Dress

The top is a toga; the bottom, a wispy A-line midi skirt that guarantees ample, elegant movement. Far from classically ladylike though, it’s in glossy nylon at Calvin Klein 205W39NYC, and cheekily sheer with a thigh-high slit and midriff cut-out at Fendi.

micro trends
From left to right: The Row, Celine

The “Cult” Maxi Dress

Like a sophisticated, oversized take on a robe/poncho that makes up for its lack of details with dramatic movement, it’s best served up by the queens of discreet chic: the Olsen Twins at The Row (it comes in gossamer silk), and Celine’s Phoebe Philo (hers is trimmed with leather).

micro trends
From left to right: Victoria Beckham, Joseph

The Modern Mob Suit

Okay, so the suit is really all ’90s-inspired tailoring: relaxed, smart, minimalist. What makes it “gangster” is the shirt that it’s paired with: punctuated by a wide spread collar, best associated with the mafia in movies from the time.  The latter adds character, but you still want things trendy and sophisticated. The solution proposed by Victoria Beckham and Joseph: go neutral and tone on tone.

micro trends
From left to right: Calvin Klein 205W39NYC, Celine

The Rain Blouson

Beyond the season’s major plastic trend, a handful of labels are experimenting with water-resistant materials. Elevating such “bad weather gear” are Calvin Klein 205W39NYC and Celine, which play with couture-style volume and gathers. Even more impressive is the latter’s choice of fabric: buttery soft calfskin that’s been treated to be water-repellent.

micro trends
From left to right: Toga, Michael Kors Collection

Wet Look Ombre

Both Yasuko Furuta of Toga and American sportswear guru Michael Kors get bitten by the blue ombre bug, and reinterpret the look with a fun, futuristic eye. Besides silk tops that appear to be seeped in baby blue paint on the bottom half, the former offers up transparent plastic skirts with the same “drip dye” effect. Kors’ take is more glamorous, finished entirely in sequins for a sleek, aqueous effect, and paired with a Snowdon blue boyfriend shirt. Talk about “good ombres”.

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From left to right: Versace, Tom Ford

The ’90s Power Party Dress

Ruched, often cut on the bias and utterly sexy, it was what Tom Ford minted during his Gucci years; ditto the late Gianni Versace when he was at the helm of his eponymous label. This season, both brands bring back the look, with Ford’s on an ’80s bent with exaggerated shoulders, and Versace’s pretty and loyal tribute in pastel-hued velvet.

Catwalk Photos Showbit.com

This story first appeared in Female’s February 2018 issue. 

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