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What You Should Be Eating According To A Culinary Anthropologist

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Culture

What You Should Be Eating According To A Culinary Anthropologist

These are our new indulgences.

by Tatiyana Emylia  /   May 17, 2022

Dig in. Credit: Phyllicia Wang

A curation of what ought to be recognised as among the finest delicacies today by Nithiya Laila – culinary anthropologist, chef, farmers’ market organiser and community seed bank founder – accompanied by a selection of fine jewellery that adds a taste of luxury to the everyday.


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https://www.femalemag.com.sg/gallery/culture/sustainable-food-ingredients-culinary-anthropologist-nithiya-laila/
What You Should Be Eating According To A Culinary Anthropologist
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Rarity makes for exclusivity. Matsusaka beef is revered as being among the top three brands of wagyu – the stringent conditions under which the cattle are raised result in a high fat-to-meat ratio and sublime melt-in-the-mouth feel. Earlier this year, artisanal meat supplier Ito Ushi made headlines for being the first company approved by the Matsusaka Beef Council – yes, it’s that hallowed – to distribute it in Singapore and Hong Kong (in fact, besides the US, it’s not exported out of Japan).

Even more impressive is that the ranch where Ito gets its wagyu from limits its slaughter to 200 cows a year and practices regenerative farming – manure from its virgin heifers is used to fertilise its rice fields that provide the cattle feed. Says Laila: “This is the best quality of beef you can find. The meat industry is notorious for its environmental impact, so eat less and eat better.”

Serpenti Viper pink gold necklace with pave diamonds, Bvlgari. Wool jacket, Givenchy

Phyllicia Wang
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With the mounting pressures of climate change, dependency on imports and a perennial space crunch, Singapore faces some serious issues regarding food security. To deal with this, producing locally – and finding alternative ways to do so – are crucial, says Laila. For example, the nutrient-rich, umami-packed sea grapes (aka green caviar) on this page were sustainably grown on St John’s Island using plant stem cell cultivation by the biotechnology company Stemcell United.

Coco Crush Toi Et Moi 18K white and beige gold small ring (on right index finger); matching 18K beige gold small ring, and 18K white and beige gold large ring (on right ring finger); Coco Crush 18K yellow gold mini ring with diamonds, and matching small ring (on left ring finger); matching 18K beige gold mini ring, and matching 18K white gold mini rings. with and without diamonds (on left third finger); and Coco Crush Toi Et Moi 18K beige gold large ring (on left index finger). All Chanel Fine Jewellery and with diamonds unless otherwise stated

Phyllicia Wang
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Meanwhile, this luscious papaya is literally the fruit of A Little Wild’s labour. This rewilding project aims to transform a 138-acre former palm oil plantation in Johor Bahru just 50km away from Woodlands into an educational agroforest for both sides of the border. An investment for the future – let’s toast to that.

Les Infinis de Camelia 18K yellow gold transformable necklace (worn as bracelet)

Phyllicia Wang
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Plenty of foods are put on a pedestal simply because they’re popularly associated with having come from specific, faraway lands, points out Laila. Now, what if we told you that this rich halloumi was made by Mazaraat Artisan Cheese that’s based in – and uses halal organic milk from – Yogyakarta? Handmade using traditional French and Greek techniques, its selection of dairy is available fresh not only because of Indonesia’s proximity to Singapore, but also because it recently set up a branch here.

Serpenti Viper rings in 18K yellow gold, white gold and pink gold, Bvlgari 

Phyllicia Wang
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Similarly, Ortritious – a smart farm in Sembawang – uses aeroponics to cultivate authentic mountain ginseng (pictured above) grown from seedlings from Korea. The technology means that customers can enjoy the entire plant (leaves and all) that’s four times more nutritious than the dried root – what we usually get with imported versions.

Juste Un Clou rose gold bracelet with diamonds and matching ring, Cartier

Phyllicia Wang
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In 1999, Evelyn Eng and Lim Tian Soo started GreenCircle Eco-Farm on Neo Tiew Road in northern Singapore, committing to organic farming principles, environmental conservation, and sustainable agriculture way before these became Covid-intensified buzzwords. Everything in this pretty medley of herbs and flowers hails from the estate and goes into the making of nasi ulam – a Malay rice salad that Laila adapted into onigiri for this story.

Clou de Forge silver single earring, Amazon silver choker with silk tie, and matching silver ring, Hermes

Phyllicia Wang
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The plants’ vividness speaks plenty about their quality, which Laila points out is hard to find commercially. Another reason Eng’s and Lim’s produce should be on your radar: Word is that they might have to give up the land that GreenCircle calls home later this year.

Phyllicia Wang
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Heritage is priceless. Keeping it alive in the digital age? Even more so, says Laila. The glistening blue swimming crabs here are from Ah Hua Kelong, which was founded in the ’90s and rejuvenated in 2014 by new millennial-aged partners keen to promote sustainably farmed local seafood. Today, its catch is sold to both restaurants and the public via its e-store, while a restaurant, Scaled By Ah Hua Kelong, offers its take on farm-to-table dining.

Phyllicia Wang
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Meanwhile, Dot Dot Bowl is Sharon Teo’s endeavour to preserve and package the tasty noodles her dad made famous at his hawker stall on Gangsa Road for the Instagram generation. Inspired by the original recipe, the intrepid entrepreneur has developed a DIY adaptation packed neatly in a patterned biodegradable bowl. Putting it together takes five minutes (just add water), but the wait to receive your delivery order can be much longer – only up to 550 servings are prepared weekly and they sell out quick.

On left hand, from top: Trinity bracelets in pink gold, white gold with diamonds, and yellow gold. On right hand: Juste Un Clou white gold ring with diamonds (on index finger), Love white gold ring with diamonds, and Coussin de Cartier rhodium-finish white gold watch with diamonds on leather strap. All Cartier

Photography Phyllicia Wang Styling Damian Huang Styling Assistance Tatiyana Emylia Hair and Makeup Sarah Tan Nails Zi/Auum – The Honest Nail Spa Model Park Minji/Mannequin

A version of this article first appeared in the May 2022 Taste Edition of FEMALE

Phyllicia Wang
  • TAGS:
  • foodie
  • nithiya laila
  • sustainability
  • sustainable dining
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MCI (P) 032/12/2022. Published by SPH Media Limited, Co. Regn. No. 202120748H. Copyright © 2023 SPH Media Limited. All rights reserved.