There’s no doubt Chef Matthew Mok has an artistic flair – his rabbit woodworks are all over the restaurant, and his sketches are on the menu. He’s used his carpentry skills and applied them to his culinary presentation as well. 

What his space offers is an “Art Supper”, dishes made combining French techniques with Asian and Singapore flavours. 

The seasonal menu is inspired by his (hard-to-pronounce) ENSOPHI expression, which offers dishes based on the essence of Exotic, Nostalgia, Soil, Ocean, Pristine, Heritage, Impression. Wait, come back!

Soil, for instance connects us to our land. The dish marries earthy flavours with proteins from grazing land animals. It’s a real visual treat and a real feat to execute – giving you an agrarian vibe. The bed of olive crumbs which act as soil (read: base) is a beautiful touch. And the flavours were surprising and delicious. It’s fun to “dig” around.

This, for instance, reminds you of the mee rebus in the school canteen. But the flavours have obviously graduated, it’s a downright luscious dish that is like comfort food in both a nostalgic and visual sense. Chef Matthew does seafood with real verve and vitality. The epiphany of giving it the viscosity of gravy and pairing it with a twirl of perfectly thin al dente noodles really pays off – it’s a very high-so, mee rebus redux.

We’ll skip the Impression (pork dish, but the crunch was heavy and laborious to chew) and Heritage (beef jowl, maybe meats not his forte) and head to the dessert named Exotic. While the spirit is adventurous, it takes a bit for the head to wrap around the idea of green curry ice cream. You’ve got mango fromage blanc and snow white pair – artfully presented – but the green curry will over power everything else. 

Final word: It’s worth a trip because a lot of elements have gone into the concept, and what’s dining out about if not to embrace adventure and support fun ideas?

Lunch (2-course $36+, 3-course $54+); Dinner (7-course $148+, 5-course $108, 4-course $90+).

Rabbit Stash, Rooftop of Wangz Hotel, 231 Outram Road, Level R, Singapore 169040. Tel: 6595-1380 / 9858-8607. http://www.therabbitstash.com.sg/

Sorrel offers “approachable fine dining”, which translates as crafted dishes served in a more casual environment – a bistronomy, if you’re into buzzwords. A team of young Singaporean chefs (including a famous blogger), led by executive chef Johnston Teo (himself only 24-years-old) prep fresh food using culinary methods from all over the world. The focus is on flavour combinations – specially created to ensure a harmonious experience.

Sorrel is named after an herb known for its fresh and clean lemony flavour. The dishes are deceptively simple-looking (don’t be fooled by the arty photos shown here), but like an aikido master, its zen-like appearance packs a powerful punch. I was most impressed with the Obsiblue prawn with Romanesco broccoli, Thai basil, sunk in the juice of little neck clams.

The menu is overhauled seasonally to feature produce that are at its peak, then the dishes are slyly tweaked to keep things fresh and surprising.

The sets come with an amuse bouche to kick things off. Wine pairings cost an additional $65. Sorrel offers a 3- and 5-course lunch menu ($45 and $88) as well as a 5- and 7-course dinner ($88 and $118).

The restaurant supports local talents (the chefs mentioned previously): the coffee and tea cups are made by local potter Kian; while local artworks adorn the walls, including Yellow River by Su-en Wong (who we’ve championed), Singa Lion ceramic sculptures by Xin Xiaochang, and this Piggy Galore piece by Eric Chan.

Portico does tasting menus with a slight difference. First, you have to sit by the bar, which is limited to 6-8 pax maybe. But that’s a good thing, because this allows you to see how your food is prepped. And secondly, Chef Nixon personally brings the ingredients and equipment right to the bar to serve you. Yup, like an open concept kitchen, but you get the meet and greet.

You have to call three days in advance to book a spot, and also to tell them your dietary restrictions. This gives them enough time to find fresh ingredients and formulate dishes – essentially you don’t know what you’re getting, but the price is set and you don’t have to fixate on that.

The menus come in five, seven, nine and 11 courses and start at $90+. The portions are really substantial and for us, the one with the most value-for-money. You can still add dishes during your seating, but again, you’re at the mercy of what the kitchen has in store. And Chef Nixon’s spontaniety.

Depending on the fresh ingredients available (seabass from Pulau Ubin), you might get an egg royale with autumn truffle coulis with chives, or an Iberico pressa with apple bay leaf puree in pork jus. How it gets done is also part of the experience – ingredients might be flambed and some sauces go through a molecular process.

Here’s another read on why you should do Portico. We loved the experience, the unexpected flavours and the spontaneous creativity – and the interaction was fun (even though the chef had to zip in and out). For our money, the most enjoyable (laidback) of the three. But each brings its own unknown pleasures.

Portico only accepts reservations on their phone line, 6276-7337. Do state your dietary restriction when you make the call. Reservations have to be made strictly at least three days in advance – so they have time to prep something unique, just for you.

Portico #01-10, 991B Alexandra Rd, Singapore 119970.