All the pieces in this iconic linen collection referenced dressmaker dummies – so each piece was numbered and the words “Semi Couture” were printed on each as a nod to the many anonymous hands involved in the making of any garment.

Ironically one of Gaultier’s lesser known pieces, this belted coat is  an unintended precursor to the new trend of trench dresses.

This bomber cannot be more on-point than today when emblazoning a house/designer’s logo on a garment is the chicest fashion insider statement.

Margiela’s Fragile collection questioned the fragility of fashion then and is most relevant in todays’ growing anti-fast fashion movement.

If Coco Chanel made pyjama dressing elegant, the credit to elevating show robes to cult status at Comme Des Garcons goes to Rei kawakubo – these coats, which she originally used during her shows to identify her employees, even have the date of the show on it.

Printed with the words “Sex with Minnie”, the t-shirt is most characteristic of the punk queen’s penchant for shocking her audience.

The image of David Bowie with a lightning bolt painted across his face will stay forever in the minds of fans and Helmut Lang immortalised the iconic cover of his sixth album Alladin Sane with this tee.

Chalayan collaborated with German hosiery brand Falke for this one-off boot for his F/W 2008 collection and gets full credit for making something insignificant (albeit necessary in the cold) as socks, elegant.