A key reference in the collection is the fashion designer and retailer Elio Fiorucci, who was the first to bring the fun-loving style of Swinging London to Italy in
the ’60s. That decade’s energy – which Maria Grazia Chiuri personally experienced – inspired the mood of the collection: playful and liberating with lots of verve.
See, for example, the D-Doll Pumps, a modern reimagining of block-heeled Mary Janes with chunky rubber soles (fun fact: one of Fiorucci’s earliest hits was
brightly coloured rain boots) apt for dancing all night in and, of course, tees with irreverent, retro-tinged logos – as much a Chiuri signature as it was for Fiorucci.

In line with the collection’s mood is this breezy new take on the Caro handbag. The style, which gets its moniker from the nickname of Monsieur Dior’s younger sister Catherine, now comes in a multicoloured, hand-embroidered cotton finish with a scalloped trim – a pretty bohemian makeover of this made-for-all-occasions shoulder bag.

When casting about for pop references, Chiuri looked to both past and present to create what the brand calls a “transversal pop aesthetic”. One of the most contemporary (and popular) inspirations: Blackpink member-slash-brand ambassador Jisoo whose feminine-made-trendy style we see reflected in the likes of collegiate miniskirts, blazers, printed blouses and berets.

Chiuri included more prints and patterns than she usually does in this collection to up the pop factor. Cue the Check’n’Dior tartan motif that turns up on everything from lightweight anoraks to tulle skirts; the Mizza leopard print – named after Dior muse Mizza Bricard who wore it often – in various colours; mini “I Love Paris” hearts; and even a reverse of the house’s Toile de Jouy in juicy shades of lime green and raspberry.

This article first appeared in the July 2021 Dance edition of FEMALE