Singapore designer Alicia Tsi has been one of the strongest champions of sustainable fashion since starting Esse The Label in 2017.
Her designs – timelessly feminine with the occasional tomboy streak – are made from organic, renewable or biodegradable fibres, and launched in small capsules (and often on a pre-order basis) to reduce wastage, for example.
The brand’s social responsibility goals for 2021 alone are ambitious. Among them: making sure that 50 per cent of its trims (read: the likes of threads, buttons and anything else attached to fabric used to create garments) are ethically sourced, as well as the launch of a repair programme to help achieve circularity.
HOW IT ALL STARTED
“Esse has been paving the way for the slow and sustainable fashion movement since 2017 and was born out of a desire to redefine the way we approach to fashion, in considering our garment’s purpose and life cycle.
The sustainability route was not something I gravitated towards initially – it came about through a culmination of experiences. I used to be quite the fashion victim and chased trends mindlessly. Over time, I became quite dismayed at the quality of fast fashion brands. I felt like I was devoting too much space in my wardrobe to purchases that left me feeling empty and I wanted to develop more of a relationship with the things I was wearing.
This led me to research and dig deeper. I learnt that the fashion industry had a negative impact on the environment and wanted to shop more consciously. As there weren’t many conscious fashion brands in Singapore back then, I was inspired to create a fashion label that approached the fashion supply chain in a more sustainable and ethical way.”
ON THE LABEL’S AESTHETIC
“Esse’s aesthetic is very minimal and clean. I personally favour relaxed silhouettes as I’m a big proponent of dressing for comfort and functionality. That has influenced the way I design and the brand’s aesthetic. I like to reference classics and add intimate details where they are least expected, encouraging wearability and styling based on individuality.”
ON WHAT SETS THE BRAND APART
“Our brand’s vision is to create a better fashion industry that is traceable, circular and more inclusive and it’s also what sets us apart. By merging our timeless designs with a traceable supply chain that champions environmental and social responsibility, we’re creating a movement for our cause and redefining how a typical fashion brand creates, collaborates and operates.”
ON THE INFLUENCES THAT HAVE SHAPED THE LABEL’S DESIGNS AND PHILOSOPHY
“Nature is my biggest source of inspiration, and the colour palettes that I put together are often based on what I see when I’m out on a hike or at the beach.
Having learnt dress-making for a couple of years, I’ve developed a deep appreciation for the craftsmanship and the hands that create each garment. This has largely shaped the brand philosophy in terms of how our garments are constructed and finished, as well as the ethical makers we choose to work with.”
THE BRAND’S SIGNATURE ITEM
“One is the organic cotton maxi dress that’s extremely pared back, but I think that its neckline, which was designed to flatter all body shapes, is what makes it a standout. Another is the organic cotton trapeze top designed with the same neckline. It’s made of Global Organic Textile Standard-certified cotton that’s extremely lightweight and breathable.”
ON THE SINGAPORE FASHION DESIGN SCENE
“I would say that Singapore’s fashion design scene is a lot more diverse now since the barriers to entry have been brought down by e-commerce retail. The focus is about being commercially viable and in a way we’ve traded that for some creativity and originality. A lot of the brands are more about fast-retailing and developing palatable products which have, in a way, translated to more homogeneity in the market.”
HOW THE LABEL HAS SHAPED SINGAPORE’S FASHION SCENE
“Our brand has helped to raise awareness for sustainability in the fashion industry. Over the years, we’ve worked with organisations like Fashion Revolution and World Wildlife Fund (WWF) to drive education amongst consumers around shopping more mindfully. Our customers, in turn, pose the questions to our counterparts on how they can incorporate elements of sustainability to their brand through the use of more environmentally friendly materials and a more circular approach to design.”
HOW THEY HOPE TO FURTHER THE SINGAPORE FASHION SCENE
“Being one of the first few conscious brands in Singapore, we wanted to address various aspects of sustainability like the provenance of our garments and a more considerate approach to designing. As the speed of fashion continues to accelerate, more fashion labels are trying to keep up by churning out designs on a more frequent basis, encouraging trend-led, mindless consumption. It’s a very unsustainable way of operating, and we wanted to offer an alternative: a mindful and slow approach that places the focus on the people who make our clothes, the materials used and a more intentional approach to curating one’s wardrobe.
We’ve created a sustainability roadmap for our brand which will help shape our decisions and hold us accountable for our efforts. For example, we have been working towards using only natural or recycled trims for our garments, and will be launching a repair programme to help customers refurbish and extend the life cycle of their Esse garments.”
DEFINING MOMENT IN SINGAPORE FASHION
“There have been many moments, but perhaps one memorable one was when Kate Middleton wore a Raoul Dress in 2012 – I thought that was instrumental to putting Singapore on the fashion map because her outfit was covered in so many international news and fashion outlets.”
ON HOW THE LOCAL FASHION DESIGN SCENE SHOULD GROW
“With more support from the government as well as investment or venture capital funding. The bulk of brands that make up our shopping scene are still international ones… There’s also a lack of investment in fashion weeks and trade shows, which means that many of our brands miss an opportunity to reach out to large-scale buyers. Add how more blog shops are evolving into fast fashion brands, making affordable clothes even cheaper and this creates further competition and a challenge to local brands that are more design-focused.”
ON BEING LABELLED “SAFE”
“That’s not something that I would contest. Our pieces are meant to be timeless and perennial and we don’t subject ourselves to quick trends and overstimulation.
That being said, our approach to longevity is not boring as we always have a steadfast approach to designing. I like to see it as a balance between being timeless yet extraordinary, luxurious yet lived-in. As Coco Chanel once said, ‘Fashion fades, style is eternal.’ I would rather our simple designs linger on than be short-lived fads.”
HOW THE LABEL IS ACCESSIBLE TO THE GENERAL FASHION CONSUMER
“Our main goal is to make sustainable fashion accessible to everyone and educate as many people as we can. Hence, that might make us seem more commercial.”
ON WHAT SINGAPORE CONSUMERS WANT
“They’re increasingly savvy and want to be able to see value in their purchases, be it in a tangible or intangible way. This has to be communicated in terms of price, quality and design. They’re also looking for comfort.”
ON BEING EXPERIMENTAL
“My raison d’etre is to raise awareness for sustainability in fashion so everything that I do and what I choose to experiment in would need to have some longevity. I don’t believe in designing for design’s sake.”
HOW LOCAL BRANDS CAN ENGAGE AND EXCITE CONSUMERS
“I think that the ‘support local’ movement has definitely gained some traction in the past few years, and the pandemic has definitely galvanised Singaporeans into action. Singaporeans are also starting to appreciate the quality and different narratives that many local brands offer.
In order to continue engaging customers, local brands need to redefine fashion within Singapore. For example, through collaborations with other creatives in Singapore, pushing for more sustainable practices or championing our heritage and culture to further enrich our local design scene.”
A version of this article first appeared in the August 2021 The Great SG Fashion Book edition of FEMALE