The bags from Bottega Veneta under creative director Matthieu Blazy have been innovative blends of craft, art and function. That’s certainly the case with the Gemelli hobo – Italian for twins, or Gemini if you’re so inclined. The name comes from it being made up of two half-moon-shaped compartments, connected by leather cords and knots, crafted from intrecciato leather. It’s designed to be worn three ways: with the detachable shoulder strap, as a clutch, or by letting the smaller compartment hang and act as a handle.

This asymmetric slouchy bag comes from Daniel Lee’s first collection for heritage British label Burberry. And, like the rest of the collection, was conceptualised as a homecoming of house values. It’s subtle, but the idea here is Burberry is a house of exploration and adventure – as espoused by its signature trench coats. The Knight bag is embodied by a piece of clip in the shape of a horse head which connects the bag and strap. This detail can be attached to bridles on the bag, transforming it into an expanded hobo bag.

How important is the camellia to Chanel? “It’s an eternal code of the house” says creative director Virginie Viard in the notes to her Fall/Winter 2023 collection that’s all about the flower. The camellia takes true pride of place this season on the signature flap bag: replacing the traditional double-C clasp. This one in baby pink patent leather is right on the money too if you’re still riding Barbie wave.

Can’t decide between a roomy tote or a compact bucket bag? Fendi’s nifty new origami lets you have your cake and eat it too. It’s constructed from 38 different pieces – available in combinations of grained leather, FF-logo jacquard, interlaced leather and shearling – with small straps on the side and magnets on the frame that snap it in and out of its tote/bucket form.

The way Hermes describes this hourglass-shaped bag is quite fierce: “The Mini Medor bag slips into a dress of black horsehair”. Like a little outfit for your bag! That ‘dress’ itself is dyed in the house’s textiles workshops and shaped by a master wigmaker. And on its cinched waist, a studded leather belt reminiscent of the famous collier de chien hardware.

The latest Camera Box bag by Louis Vuitton is a streamlined reinterpretation of a model from the Fall/Winter 2016 runway collection. Part petite malle trunk-inspired (see the S-lock clasp and rivet details), and part city bag, it’s got a nice combination of structure and slouch. This new version also uses a mix of the brand’s monogram and monogram reverse canvas, and the options of carrying it as a top handle, or on the shoulder with either a metal chain or a thin leather strap.

Geometry is on the mind this season at Prada with the introduction of the crescent-shaped Arque bag. It’s a familiar hobo style, but the details tell the story of shape and balance. The bag is circled by two bands of leather, which frame the base and form the handle. On the handle are D-rings that allow you to attach a longer strap to wear it crossbody. And in signature understated Prada style, it’s decorated with the enamelled triangle logo that matches the black, white or cognac leather.

Loewe is taking the soft, squishy bag to a new level with the Squeeze, its latest design. It’s crafted from super soft unlined lambskin nappa leather with a ruched detail near the opening. It’s held together by a doughnut chain and a squishy leather handle (which it gets its name from) that can be hidden inside the ruching or extended to wear the bag on the shoulder and cross-body. Fun fact: the chain is gold-plated and made from a stainless steel and aluminium alloy specially developed to keep it light – easily the funkiest, most innovative design of the season.

The 95.22 line of bags from Dior is so named as a nod to its predecessor. The Lady Dior was created in 1995, and the year 2022 was when this model came out. This season, the French couture house adds a new mini size of the 95.22 to the mix. It’s got the same details that make it recognisably Dior: rounded top handles sheathed in leather, the letter charms, and the quilted leather which is used in a mix of big, bold macro- and maxi-cannage.

Valentino’s Rockstud bags come in a new top-handle style this season. The compact bag is designed in the trendy horizontal trapezium shape and features the signature metal stud details along the clasp, top handles, chain and lacquered studs around the frame of the bag. What’s extra cool is a high-frequency leather technique that creates a quilted bas-relief effect around the studs on the front.

Balenciaga’s Winter 2023 collection is about going back to the fundamentals of design. This new bag, dubbed the Monaco, embodies that focus in its simplicity and multi-functional form. It is essentially a long open pouch – available in crinkle, smooth, quilted or flat leather – that can be worn opened as a tote or folded as a flap handbag.

American fashion label Ralph Lauren has launched what may be its latest must-have collection of bags. Named the 888 collection after the brand’s New York flagship in 888 Madison Avenue, it combines fine Italian leather and craftsmanship with a classic American spirit. The structured shape is inspired by New York architecture, and the bags are brought to life by hand by Florentine artisans. It’s part of the designer’s high-end Ralph Lauren Collection line, which explains the plush materials: box calfskin on the main body, nappa lambskin in the lining, and hardware in palladium, brass and champagne finishes.

One of Tod’s more underrated bag collections is the T Case, which is defined by soft slouchy leather, T Timeless hardware on the sides of the handles, and an elegant latch cover. This season, the Italian label has introduced a new Boston bag style to the range. The T hardware on the sides is now covered in leather, the flap latch front is embroidered with a subtle pair of Ts, a zip pocket makes getting into the bag easier than ever, and there’s the option of carrying it by its leather-wrapped top handle or an included shoulder strap.