The Spring/Summer 2024 season is underway, with many notable events this fashion week in particular. We’ve seen rising star Peter Do’s first collection for Helmut Lang – reviews appear to be mixed but first collections are always going tough. We say: let’s give Do more time to build his vision.
Then, there’s also Sabato De Sarno’s upcoming Gucci debut – judging from the hints by way of the Daria Werbowy campaign the designer revealed in August, the Italian maison may be moving towards a more grown-up sultriness not dissimilar to what Tom Ford first brought to Gucci in the ’90s.
Sabato De Sarno, Gucci’s new creative director. Credit: Riccardo Raspa
And of course, the designer’s designer is back: Phoebe Philo is said to be unveiling her eponymous, direct-to-consumer brand with limited drops this month on her website. While Phoebe Philo (the brand) is backed with a minority stake by luxury conglomerate LVMH, it’ll be interesting to see how one of the most idiosyncratic woman designer of our era does things her own way without having to play by an established house’s codes.
Longtime Alexander McQueen creative director, and protege of the late founder, Sarah Burton. She’s leaving the company after starting at Alexander McQueen as an intern in 1996, before rising up to lead the brand in 2010.
The return of a prominent woman designer is all the more important, especially in the light of creative director Sarah Burton’s very recently announced departure from Alexander McQueen – a house she’s worked at since 1996, and eventually headed up after its founder died by suicide in 2010.
It’s currently undetermined yet as to the reasons behind Burton’s departure (was it by her choice or parent company Kering’s?), but Burton has definitely left a softer, more feminine mark on the Alexander McQueen brand, and whoever replaces her will have big shoes to fill. She will be presenting her final collection for Alexander McQueen on September 30th at Paris Fashion Week.
This story will continually be updated with the latest shows, so stay tuned. P.S. The show details below reflect Singapore date and time.