The main inspirations for Fendi’s Astrology Summer 2023 capsule were the brand’s Spring Summer 1990 and 1993 collections, which featured zodiac names and symbols hand‑written and drawn by the late Karl Lagerfeld. Now updated in a jaunty palette of blue, white, pink, brown, orange and black, those very motifs enliven the brand’s signature Peekaboo line of bags. Clock the medium Peekaboo ISeeU on the far right here: Its printed canvas exterior is trimmed in Cuoio Romano leather and stitched Selleria‑style – a saddle‑inspired, hand‑done technique unique to Fendi – and constructed to sag to reveal a lush, blue suede lining. Other collectible editions include a small Peekaboo ISeeU hand‑threaded with dark blue and white leather strips all along its edges (far left), and a Peekaboo ISeeU with beige nappa leather sides and its front and back hand‑braided out of golden, natural‑coloured straw (middle).

Besides novelty finishes such as all‑over sequins, and bead and goldwork embroidery depicting the collection’s astrology motifs, the brand’s famous pochette comes in a light blue denim wash with a raised, tone‑on‑tone FF monogram pattern and a brown leather trim. The result: a Baguette even bigger on ’90s cool that breezes effortlessly from poolside to party.

What’s a summer collection without the brand’s in‑demand logo shopper named Sunshine? In homage to the beachfront of the Mediterranean coast and mid‑year holiday vibes in general, it now comes woven out of straw, with a sturdy and refined moss‑stitch effect. To up the elegance, the medium size sports stiff leather handles while the mini one is equipped with handles in plexiglass with a tortoiseshell effect.

A resort‑chic staple with graphic cut‑outs that reveal an internal pouch in a contrasting fabric, this elegant bucket bag comes in straw or what the brand refers to as “cuoio” leather as part of this summer capsule. The latter is padded and stitched by artisans in a special maroquinerie workshop to create the Fendi logo that wraps the entire exterior, while both versions are fitted with a brown jacquard drawstring bag printed all over with the FF monogram.

With an architectural, oversized metal clasp in the shape of the letter F, this plush hand‑held purse helped revive the statement clutch trend when it debuted two years ago. The versions in the Fendi Astrology summer capsule can be said to be works of art with their labour‑intensive finishes, such as this S‑sized number created by interlacing strips of blue and white leather entirely by hand.

Consider the Mon Tresor the most youthful bucket style in the Fendi bag family. In the Fendi Astrology summer capsule, this dinky number gets even more playful, made over in the likes of light blue monogrammed denim, or rich brown leather with an espadrille‑style base and the brand’s name boldly stitched across.

This article first appeared in the July 2023 Graphic Design Edition of FEMALE