We’re now into Kim Jones’ third ready-to-wear show for the house of Fendi – and right from the start of his tenure, the womenswear artistic director has made it clear that he’s always very respectful of the Fendi women and history behind the label.
This season is no different: Jones got his start for the Fall/Winter 2022 collection after seeing Fendi scion (and artistic director for the maison’s jewellery range) Delfina Delettrez walking into the office dressed in a vintage printed blouse pilfered from her mother (Fendi matriarch) Silvia Venturini Fendi’s wardrobe.
Below, we take you through a detailed breakdown of the new collection.
Former Fendi creative director Karl Lagerfeld headed the maison for an incredible 54 years – Kim Jones’ first reference was to Lagerfeld’s Spring/Summer 1986 collection when the latter was in his “Memphis” phase.
For the uninitiated, Memphis refers to the design movement dominant in the ’80s that was known for its use of loud, wacky colours, haphazard arrangements and brightly coloured plastic laminates (those Terrazzo tabletops and trays you’re seeing everywhere these days got their start from this Memphis movement).
Lagerfeld was reportedly a big fan of the Memphis movement and it reflected in his ’80s work for Fendi – Jones referenced that in the latest collection, seen particularly on several looks that came bedecked in geometric prints.
The second reference was to Lagerfeld’s Spring/Summer 2000 collection for Fendi, which was replete with slinky, diaphanous dresses. Jones put a contemporary spin on that Y2K reference by pairing the filmy chiffon designs with say, cashmere gloves in acid hues, or contrasting it cleverly with masculine tweeds. In a way, this play on delicate, revealing fabrics with others that obscure it (such as the house’s signature furs and leathers) can be read as a “peekaboo” effect (a sly nod to Fendi’s iconic Peekaboo bag?)
Modular design – be it in furniture, jewellery or fashion – refer to things that change shape or form for different purposes. It’s increasingly a trend in industrial design as people want more out of their purchases and it’s apparent at Fendi as well. Jones included blazers that can be detached to become gilets (vests) and pocketed belts (seen here) can both cinch the waist and hold a phone. Sweet.
There will be special intarsia fur iterations of the Italian maison’s oversized shopper and recent hit Fendi First bag (middle), and what looks to be a mini hand-clutch version of the new Fendigraphy hobo bag (right) that was launched in the Spring/Summer 2022 collection (and which has just become available in stores).
And for all you Sex and the City fans: three beloved previous editions of the iconic Baguette will be re-issued in cashmere, in shearling-lined leather and in intarsia mink as a nod to the bag’s 25th anniversary.
Fourth-generation Fendi scion Delfina Delettrez formally became the creative director of jewellery at the maison last year and since then, she’s made it a mission to introduce experimental pieces that don’t take themselves too seriously.
For example, in the Fall/Winter 2021 ready-to-wear collection (her debut), she took inspiration from something as utilitarian as carabiners and transformed it into playful hairclips.
This season, monograms are supersized into ear cuffs while tennis bracelets are quietly embellished with baguette crystals for an allusion to Fendi’s famous double FF logo. A key design is the new “Master Key” motif, which can be seen on pendants and statement earrings (as seen above).