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Gabriela Hearst Is Not Kidding A...

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Fashion

Gabriela Hearst Is Not Kidding About Making Chloe A Brand Of The Future

First order of business: Fast-tracking its #SustainabilityGoals.

by Imran Jalal  /   March 7, 2021

chloe gabriela hearst

Paving a new road at Chloe. Credit: Chloe

There was never a doubt from the get-go that Gabriela Hearst’s Chloe will be playing a different ballgame from the one that her predecessor Natacha Ramsay-Levi had crafted during her four-year stint there.

After all, it was reported that part of Hearst’s application for the post was a 92-page proposal that underlined a purpose-driven vision for the 69-year-old brand – and we got a taste of that during her Fall/Winter 2021 collection debut recently.

READ MORE: Gabriela Hearst Is Set On Changing The Luxury Fashion World

For one, Hearst is fast-tracking the sustainability goals she has set out for the brand for 2025 with an ambitious new timeline of just one year. And if one has any doubts about how resolute this Uruguayan-born designer is in achieving that aim, just consider how her debut collection is said to be four times more sustainable compared to Ramsay-Levi’s swansong collection for Spring/Summer 2021.

chloe gabriela hearst
Credit:Chloe

Gabriela Hearst

Why the urgency, some might ask? Isn’t it obvious? You just need to read the news for the answer.

A part of Hearst’s motivations boils down to how she is a futurist designer with a realist bent. Her debut 29-look show – staged a hundred years to the day of founder Gaby Aghion’s birth and held on the empty streets of Paris’ Boulevard Saint-Germain – featured clothes that are easy, breezy, and at times, beautiful.

READ MORE: Burberry Is Super Serious About Being Sustainable

There were her trademark cosy knits made from recycled cashmere seen on capes. column dresses and bags. There wearable flowy maxi dresses and georgette blouses. Perhaps to shake things up a bit, there was what the brand dubs the “puffcho” – a poncho-meets-puffer cape hybrid.

chloe gabriela hearst
Credit:Chloe

The striped puffcho pays homage to Hearst’s South American roots.

These clothes may not necessarily be groundbreaking – and may take some of the brand’s regular clientele a little time to get accustomed to – but they certainly herald a new sustainable journey that Hearst wants to take the Chloe woman on.

Which brings us to a quote Hearst gave FEMALE for an interview two years ago: “In running our businesses, what is the real cost to the world and to our own humanity? We really need to rethink how we do things. The positive side of it is all the tools are already in existence, now we just need to make a change.”

Below, we highlight the many ways that change is taking shape at the brand.


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https://www.femalemag.com.sg/gallery/fashion/gabriela-hearst-chloe-fall-winter-2021-collection-debut-sustainable/
Gabriela Hearst Is Not Kidding About Making Chloe A Brand Of The Future
THERE WILL BE NO MORE SYNTHETIC AND ARTIFICIAL FIBRES
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This means materials like polyester and viscose have been phased out.

Chloe
THERE'S AN EMPHASIS ON RECYCLED AND SUSTAINABLE FABRICS
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For example, recycled cashmere yarn used for knitwear has been upped to 80 per cent and there is an emphasis on using recycled, reused and organic denim.

Chloe
SHE SUPPORTS ORGANIC AGRICULTURE
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More than half of the silk used in the collection hails from organic farms.

Chloe
EVEN HIDDEN DETAILS ARE NOT SPARED THE ECO-FRIENDLY TREATMENT
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The cotton linings of bags have been replaced by natural linen because the latter’s production requires less water.

Chloe
IT ELIMINATES POLLUTION CAUSED BY METAL MANUFACTURING
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To minimise the impact on the environment brought about by the galvanisation process of metals during the production of jewellery and metallic parts on bags, the brand selects one gold and one silver across all collections.

Chloe
WORKING WITH LIKE-MINDED PARTNERS
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It works with sustainable suppliers in various stages of the design process, from materials procurement to packaging.

Chloe
IT WANTS TO MAKE FASHION SHOWS MORE CARBON NEUTRAL
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Emissions are being offset and directed towards a reforestation project of mangroves in Myanmar.

Chloe
IT CHAMPIONS ARTISANAL CRAFTSMANSHIP
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The marbling motif that runs throughout the collection was conceived in Hearst’s hometown of New York using natural (read: environmentally-friendly) ingredients instead of chemical dyes.

Chloe
FALL'S 'IT' BAG UNDERWENT A MASSIVE RECYCLING AND UPCYCLING EXERCISE
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This mid-2000 design is the undisputed star bag for Fall/Winter. The reissued design features fabrics like recycled cashmere or recycled jacquard. Additionally, Chloe also acquired 50 vintage models from eBay and gave them a new lease of life with discarded materials from the making of the collection.

Chloe
IT DIDN'T LET MATERIALS GO TO WASTE
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Handknitted leather totes are decorated with recycled wooden C knitted into the handle. The statement moon boots, for instance, incorporate recycled cashmere, while some pearl earrings and pendants are paired with recycled wood.

Chloe
IT'S GIVING BACK TO SOCIETY
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Twenty per cent of the ready-to-wear are manufactured by World Fair Trade Organization fair trade-guaranteed members. For its Fall/Winter 2021 outing, Chloe has teamed up with Manos del Uruguay and Dutch nonprofit Sheltersuit to create a positive social impact for the women and men crafting pieces for the collection.

Chloe
IT'S SUPPORTING SHELTERSUIT
image

For the uninitiated, Sheltersuit is a Dutch nonprofit that produces water-resistant coats using recycled sportswear that can be converted into sleeping bags/shelter for the homeless. For Gabriela Hearst’s debut collection, the company created a backpack using repurposed materials from the fashion house. For each bag sold, Chloe will be funding the construction of two Sheltersuits coats. 

Chloe
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MCI (P) 047/10/2021. Published by SPH Media Limited, Co. Regn. No. 202120748H. Copyright © 2022 SPH Media Limited. All rights reserved.