Dries Van Noten has always been known for designing for the eclectic, arts-inclined woman who knows her mind and doesn’t necessarily pander to flash-in-the-pan trends – and nowhere was this most evident than in his latest collection that deftly use papery, technical fabric to great effect: elegant without a hint of try-hard.

Call me biased but Julien Dossena’s latest collection for Paco Rabanne might be his best yet — the Philo fan will certainly be tempted by how Dossena integrated the house’s signature chain mail with strongly ethnic influences (cue the sarongs and wrap dresses) – two disparate sources of inspiration convincingly melded and the end result was thoroughly modern — and desirable.

Demna Gvasalia sent out what felt like his most assured collection to date at Balenciaga – yes the shapes are clearly his but refined further — such as the 3D-molding technique introduced last season. It also felt more grown-up — Gvasalia said he wanted to reimagine tailoring for today’s streetwear-obsessed kids. If the end result is that delicious lime green wrap tube top + trousers combo, I’m all for it.

Couture-esque shapes and silhouettes have made themselves felt very strongly this season but Pierpaolo Piccioli probably did them best at Valentino. Under his charge, Valentino has progressively become more spirited and less precious — and the SS’19 collection positively had industry folks salivating, be it the huge straw hats or dazzling colours and feathery accoutrements. But I personally veered towards the “quieter” looks such as the 14 all-black looks that opened the show — clean of any distractions, their soaring shapes and cuts was the whole story in itself.

Will the Phoebe Philo woman take to JW Anderson’s Loewe? Chances are they probably already do — both after all, tend to cater to arts-leaning individual who appreciates effective, quietly seductive apparel. Anderson continued his focus on all things artisanal — Loewe bags will come fringed, woven, crocheted and more next season but his signature relaxed silhouettes, updated with a mostly neutral colour palette with flashes of hot orange, ocean blue and extravagant feathers — made for a scrumptious package.

Well. Who would have though the former Spice Girl’s eponymous label would have lasted 10 years? Yet it continues to go from strength to strength. Yes, industry folks do tend to gripe that Beckham’s pieces tend to be reminiscent of Philo’s oeuvre, but if that’s true, she offers one of the most polished and desirable takes then. The look this season continues the label’s penchant for effortless tailoring with a sporty-luxe edge — though with a new and rather interesting proposition: extremely narrow trousers with a distinctive V-shaped split at the ankles that was worn under dresses, skirts and everything else — refer to the middle look.