One of the key takeaways from the recent Fall/Winter 2023 shows that wrapped up earlier this month was probably a sense of austerity; many designers put extra emphasis on tailoring (see the excellent Saint Laurent and Alexander McQueen shows, for example) and there was a general air of stripped back frivolity (check out Prada’s stand-out homage to the uniforms of essential workers).
It may not come as a surprise that buyers and editors alike are noting the shift towards a more grown-up, pared back sensibility. Fashion is fickle-minded; it might simply be time to move on from the exuberant logomania that dominated the second half of the 2010s, thanks to key players like Alessandro Michele, who shook up the scene with his eclectic, vintage-tinged aesthetic.
But with Michele’s exit from Gucci late last year, the brand is reportedly gearing up to move towards a more restrained, timeless direction. Then, there’s also savant Phoebe Philo’s much-awaited return this September with her own eponymous label, which in all likelihood, will further see the pendulum swinging away from Instagram-first, logo-centric dressing. And beyond the fashion industry itself, larger forces like inflation and the ongoing Ukraine war are all likely factors in contributing to a more sombre climate.
This shirt from Bottega Veneta’s Spring/Summer 2023 collection is made from leather coated with 12 layers of dye to make it look like a casual flannel piece, perfectly exemplifying quiet luxury’s discreet, IYKYK ethos.
So! Back to quiet luxury – what is it actually? Minimalism is one part of it but it’s more of a way of living – a preference towards well-made, discrete design that don’t scream their presence. Think things that carry a whiff of IYKYK (if you know you know) energy about them; it could be an outwardly simple but luxurious cashmere sweater from The Row, or perhaps Bottega Veneta’s hyper artisanal shirt that’s made to look like casual flannel but is actually crafted from leather.
Basically, elevated staples that will stand the test of time and very likely to be free of obvious signifiers. And if you’re looking to shop that sensibility now, bags are the easiest way to opt in – we’ve rounded up some choice options for you below.