The fact that the Saint Laurent show was moved up from the later half of the Paris Fashion Week calendar to the opening night – a slot generally taken up by emerging labels, if at all – is symbolic enough of the brand wanting change, and for people to know that.
Change after four electrifying and highly successful years under Hedi Slimane who basically set the standard for I-don’t-give-a-damn cool during his tenure, and then called it quits this April with equally badass nonchalance. Change because Anthony Vaccarello, the man tasked to take over, is a rookie compared to Slimane both in terms of influence and the ability to lead one of fashion’s most important labels – and could do with all the help he can get to prove his mettle. (Disclaimer: This author is a Slimane devotee.)
So the big question on the evening of Vaccarello’s debut as Saint Laurent’s creative director on Sept 27 was, “Can the man deliver and usher in a new era?”. Some diehards might disagree, but the 53-look showcase was a pleasantly refreshing departure from Slimane’s rock ‘n’ roll-obsessed collections without losing their provocateur edge. Below, everything from the show that got my thumbs up, including the looks to love.