Created by Vietnamese designer Duy Tran, this red hot brand has been seen on A-list celebrities like Bella Hadid, Hailey Bieber, Dua Lipa, Doja Cat, Olivia Rodrigo, and Jisoo and Lisa of Blackpink. The aesthetic is hugely inspired by over-the-top feminine glamour from the ‘80s and ‘90s, with strong inflections of unabashed clubber gals.

American designer Elena Velez is the critical darling of New York fashion right now. Originally from Milwaukee, Velez’s creations are gritty and avant-garde, mixing together grunge and grime with deconstructed feminine glamour. Think corsetry broken apart, or cocktail dresses and gowns stripped into a mix of barebones panels and flowing fabric. Velez has described her aesthetic as “anti-beautiful”, drawing from her working class background in the American Midwest, and it’s making a splash.

Indonesian designer Veldon Salim is a recent graduate from Central Saint Martins’ master programme in knitwear, with experience at international labels like Ports 1961, Erdem and Self-Portrait. But Salim’s own designs – seen at his graduate collection show – is a sensual and tactile way of putting knits on the body. The word to describe it might be gentle, which you’ll see as the knitted textiles in varyingly sheer textures drape, twist and cling on the wearer.

China is a hotbed of fashion talent, and Marrknull is one label to keep an eye on. The Beijing-based brand was co-founded by Tim Shi and Mark Wang, and is described as an integration of Chinese culture and fashion archetypes. That comes from a blend of Shi’s background in architecture and Wang’s in knit design. There’s lots of deconstructed denim in the collections, which have won them both critical acclaim and celebrity endorsement: semi-finalists in this year’s edition of the LVHM prize, and designing concert outfits for Rose of Blackpink.

Badass girls love ethical fashion. At least that’s the mood at Australian brand Bye Bambi, which claims a commitment to uplifting both the people who wear their clothes and the planet. The aesthetic is full-tilt Y2K, with styles like denim minis, frilly singlets and spaghetti strap tops, cut-out bodycon dresses, and of course, embellished baby tees. What’s great is that even if the look is a redux, the approach is totally modern: the brand employs garment workers with fair wages and conditions, releases small collection drops, uses sustainable packaging, and sustainable materials like offcut or recycled fabrics.

There’s a c-word to describe the look of Sultry Virgin, a brand founded by Chinese stylists Edge Yang and Qiuge Wang. The look is clearly Y2K-inspired, and utterly sexy and upbeat, drawing richly and freely from the partying It-girls of the aughts. Think of it as a youthful lens into the kind of nostalgia that high fashion Twitter kids have for the glamour pusses of the recent past, with a touch of slightly queer, campy femininity.

Rare is the fashion designer who can easily switch modes from elegant sophistication to sexy provocation. Chinese designer Mark Gong is one such talent, whose brand has become one of the highlights on the Shanghai Fashion Week schedule. A high point from his latest Fall/Winter 2023 collection are 3D-printed metallic bow bra tops, an innovative take on sexy, modernist body armour. His creations have been worn by stars the likes of Jennie and Rose from Blackpink, supermodel Liu Wen, and superstar entertainers like Jolin Cai and Victoria Song.

One of the hottest names on the London Fashion Week circuit now is Knwls, co-founded by design partners Charlotte Knowles and Alexandre Arsenault. The label, which launched shortly after its founders graduated from Central Saint Martins, is all about disruptive, female-led sexuality. (Knowles herself designed her graduate collection around deconstructing push-up bras!) Its aesthetic has evolved from brash plays on underwear as outerwear into more refined silhouettes and craft techniques – but the sexy, provocative heart remains. Look here for daring body-con fits, dangerous cut-outs, teasing sheer fabrics, and an attitude of feminine empowerment – which have won the brand acclaim like a finalist position in last year’s LVMH Prize, as well as a collaboration with enfant terrible couturier Jean Paul Gaultier that’s just dropped.