The fashion cognoscenti is currently crazy for t-shirts. But not just any plain ol’ tee: We’re talking logo or slogan tees with loud, flashy graphics or (sometimes) profane quotes splashed on their fronts. Like how white sneakers ruled the streets a few seasons back, the t-shirt has now become an insider wardrobe item of choice to flaunt.

Call it the Vetements effect: the cult French collective’s DHL logo t-shirt has been spotted on It girls like Margaret Zhang, while its Titanic poster-emblazoned sweatshirt was worn to death during fashion week. It almost seems like Georgian designer Demna Gvasalia – the man behind Vetements’ hot hoodies and Balenciaga’s edgy F/W ’16 collection – has unleashed a new breed of streetstyle star: One who forgoes extravagant peacocking for outfits that are both mundane and elevated at the same time. Below, a look at how the t-shirt is gaining ground, both on the runway and off.