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A New Gen Menswear Label Relooking The Past

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Fashion

A New Gen Menswear Label Relooking The Past

Launched in July, Un Homme is bringing back the desire for elegant dressing for a new generation of consumers.

by Rebecca Rachel Wong  /   September 1, 2021
un homme

Back to the future. Credit: Jaime Loh

Mention Singapore menswear labels and the image of a label specialising in either tailoring or a practical minimalist aesthetic or streetwear may come to mind. Not that there’s anything wrong with that picture – but one-month-old Un Homme prefers to take a slightly different approach.

READ MORE: A Conversation With Jonathan Seow, Singapore’s Most Mysterious Man In Fashion

For starters, co-founders Jaime Loh (@jamxae) and Ryan Drysdale (@ryandrysdale), both 24, feel there is a niche they can fill in the market here.

Loh, who is also a photographer, says: “Ryan found it hard to find affordable clothes that resonate with him in the current market − fashion from as early as the 1950s up till the 1970s, with minimal streetwear added into the mix. We also realised designs were limited for menswear and launched this brand to fill the gap and be appreciated by others.”

un homme
Credit:Jaime Loh

Un Homme co-founder Ryan Drysdale modelling vintage items curated for the brand’s Storeroom by Un Homme line.

Currently in its infant stage, the brand has yet to launch its own pieces. However, it’s starting out by selling pieces under Storeroom by Un Homme which is fashioned as a curated collection of vintage garments.

Storeroom by Un Homme currently carries brands that were popular in the past like Lacoste, Grand Slam, Golden Bear and Crocodile International. In its inventory are items like tennis sweaters, flare pants and sweater vests.

READ MORE: The Revival Of The Vintage Store In Singapore

The label doesn’t have a website or physical space as yet, though there are plans to open a brick-and-mortar shop in the next year or two. True to its DNA as a Gen Z-run business, items are sold via the IG page of @un___homme, as well as TikTok and Carousell.

READ MORE: Spades Is The Multi-Label Store Focused On Community & Creative Expression

All this is part of Un Homme’s objective to be a “contemporary label that seeks to explore the silhouette and fashion of men from the past, and redefining it in the present”.

What that means is a considered approach to dressing up that heavily takes cues from the ’50s and ’60s. It’s a narrative that has been emerging in menswear in recent times that namechecks proponents like New York label Bode, Brit label John Alexander Skelton and Portuguese brand Ernest W. Baker.

View this post on Instagram

A post shared by un homme (@un___homme)

True to its roots as a brand born out of social media, the brand’s Instagram page also serves as a mood board and window to the sartorialist days of the past. Cue posts on the history of the Aran sweater and its knitting techniques or a 1930 snapshot of Salvador DalI and Gala Dali dressed in matching pants and sleeveless tops for a day by the seaside.

Ahead, we get Loh to tell us more about the label.


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https://www.femalemag.com.sg/gallery/fashion/un-homme-singapore-menswear-label-vintage-fashion/
A New Gen Menswear Label Relooking The Past
image

Tell us about the people behind Un Homme.

“Un Homme was founded by me (Loh) and Ryan Drysdale. We are both working full-time in our respective jobs while spearheading Un Homme. Ryan’s in the logistic industry, while I’m a manager in the construction manufacturing industry.

I majored in Fashion Media & Industries at Lasalle College of the Arts and freelanced as a fashion photographer throughout my years in university.

Ryan studied business in Nitec and Banking in Higher Nitec, but he’s always had an eye for fashion and is constantly inspired by menswear fashion through films and photography.”

What is the label all about?

“Un Homme when translated from French means ‘a man’. The name represents the human body that we believe is a form of communication and interaction while being clothed.

The brand is a curation of styles that excites men with affordability and versatility; allowing men to find the clothing they can identify with. We observed that there is a market for street and minimal wear in Singapore, but what’s lacking is a community for people like Ryan who possess a similar style.

Our garments are reasonably priced between $28 to $55, and we style them differently for catalogue and editorial images to showcase their versatility.”

Jaime Loh
image

How would you describe the label’s aesthetic?

“It is about layering and having a precise fit. We believe that men can wear and style with what’s traditionally feminine silhouettes. The way the fabrics feel and attention to detail is important to us as well.”

What are the label’s influences?

“We get our inspirations mainly from films, arts and culture, especially those featuring the styles and set designs of the past that we do not get to see in this day and age. The film American Gangster inspired us to believe that many out there resonate with men’s fashion, past or present.

For our photoshoot, we also take our cues from architecture, graphics and interiors from the past and present of both Asian and Western countries. It is a statement of adoration, as well as an extension of our commitment to celebrating the changes over the years.”

Jaime Loh
image

You’ve described your label as ‘inspiring men through the evolution of men’s fashion’. Can you elaborate on this?

“Fashion is constantly evolving but it is also a gradual progression of revisited ideas. In the past, men were known for their bold choices of colours and patterns and would change their clothes several times a day as propriety dictated.

We want men to revisit the evolution of men’s fashion and be inspired by our imagery and garments. We are very interested in how fashion evolved over the years, and our curated collection will portray that.”

On Instagram, you’ve also described the label as being a platform for men to come together to appreciate fashion. How exactly do you hope to achieve that?

“Fashion is about individuality and draws influence from films, arts and culture. Un Homme is constantly inspired by these disciplines; reaching out to individuals who also share the same appreciation of the hybrid between masculine and feminine dressing. And as a result, forming a collective group of people.

Apart from being active on social media and posting a variety of images featuring different models, we’d like to host events at spaces. We’ve seen how events can bring people from different walks of life together, and we hope to host them once the pandemic is over. Building a community centred around fashion and having them around each other physically can be encouraging and inspiring.”

Jaime Loh
image

Your clothes are designed to be wearable in our local weather. Do you feel that at times style has to be compromised for practicality and comfort?

“Yes, garments from Un Homme and Storeroom by Un Homme can be worn for any occasion or weather comfortably, in or out of Singapore.

We believe that style is subjective to each individual. Regardless of its fabric or silhouette, there are always alternative ways to style garments.

An example (from our shoot) is the green blazer we paired with a collared shirt, a pair of flare pants, and accessorised with coloured socks and sandals. The styling is a depiction of the hybrid between masculine and feminine dressing, with clothes that are comfortable and versatile.”

How do you think men’s fashion has evolved in Singapore?

“There has been a tremendous growth of men’s fashion in Singapore and it is still evolving. Though some are seen to be more cautious about trying anything beyond the ‘approved’ white, blue, grey and black, there are also people breaking boundaries. There are definitely no rules in fashion.”

Jaime Loh
image

As a homegrown menswear label, how do you hope to contribute to the scene and what gaps are you hoping to address?

“We want to advocate for individuals to break out of dominant fashion trends. People do not need to follow current trends to be comfortable in the way they dress. We intend to do so by revisiting past fashion influences and bringing in curated pieces that are timeless, versatile, and readily available for anyone to purchase.”

Tell us more about the vintage collection Storeroom by Un Homme. How was it curated and how do you choose which brands to bring in?

“The garments from Storeroom by Un Homme are essentially pieces from the past. When taken out and worn, they get appreciated once again.

When sourcing for garments, we pick specific items which are no longer in production or rare pieces. We believe in longevity in garments, and these pieces are ‘kept for a period of time and taken out again to be worn’.

We are not particular about the brands we bring in. We hope for people to appreciate intricate details, choice of fabric and silhouettes because garments are more than just how they look at first glance.”

When can we expect Un Homme’s own line of garments, and what can customers look forward to when it launches?

“We want our first collection to be well-thought using carefully sourced materials. This process takes time and we will be looking into producing quality garments in the future.”

Jaime Loh
  • TAGS:
  • menswear
  • shopping
  • singapore brand
  • Singapore fashion
  • un homme
  • vintage fashion
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MCI (P) 047/10/2021. Published by SPH Media Limited, Co. Regn. No. 202120748H. Copyright © 2022 SPH Media Limited. All rights reserved.