Several historical references were made by Anthony Vaccarello for Saint Laurent’s Spring/Summer 2023 collection. One of which was to American dancer and choreographer Martha Graham – specifically her 1930 production of Lamentation which had dancers costumed in a tube of fabric. The other was the house’s Spring/Summer Haute Couture 1985 which had hooded capuche dresses.
Vaccarello’s creations have always centered around the relationship one’s body has with clothes – compelling him to create clothes around the idea of “enveloping the body from head to toe.”
These inspirations served as strong points of reference for the collection which is replete with floor-length silk jersey dresses paired with voluminous wool coats, leather coats and trench coats. Camel, olive, midnight blue and a vintage-tinged purple form the colour palette for the collection, while the tactile quality of the outing is evident in the wood and gold-tone cuffs and shoes in a luxurious smooth satin material.
Scroll on for a look at our picks from the collection.