The inherently rebellious Clash de Cartier collection doubles its punchy attitude with more new styles that feature not one, but two rows of its signature studs and clous carres, or square nails. These include rose gold necklaces and bracelets – plain or paved on all sides of the nails with diamonds – that for all their sculptural volume remain supple when worn, thanks to the intricate ribbed mesh design.

The inspiration for Bvlgari’s Serpenti collection lies in Greek and Roman mythology, but few can deny the rock‑star appeal of its ophidian motif – especially in the hands of the Italian luxury house. From its original incarnation as a wraparound jewellery watch crafted using the industrial‑inspired Tubogas technique in 1948 to the modern Serpenti Viper line, which highlights the animal’s scales and include pared‑back, everyday‑perfect styles, the Serpenti has been synonymous with glamour, sensuality and an element of surprise (what with the countless ways the brand keeps reinventing it). This year marks its 75th anniversary, so expect a celebration of all variations of this icon, including new novelties such as the Serpenti Pallini ring and necklace that feature mobile small gold beads attached to their Tubogas coils so they shake (or, should we say, jangle) as one moves.

Three years ago, Francesca Amfitheatrof – Louis Vuitton’s artistic director for watches and jewellery – introduced her coolly modern take on logo jewellery with the LV Volt collection. Its recurring motif: a cleverly intertwined “L” and “V” with clean, hyper‑slick lines that bring to mind a stylised electric or lightning bolt (how rock ‘n’ roll is that?). Now, the maison debuts diamond‑set LV Volt One ear studs and pendants with triangular white gold claws for a setting that is said to enhance the sparkle of the gemstones. Also new: an openwork yellow gold and diamond ring to play up the architectural form of its unexpected monogram.

Consider Graff’s Spiral collection the jewellery equivalent of a soft rock love ballad. Its designs, which feature winding curves, are meant to symbolise eternal devotion, making its rings a popular choice as wedding bands. Its sculptural and minimalist aesthetic – which extends to pendants, bangles and earrings – means arty types would heart it for all‑occasion wear too.

Featuring little angular blocks lined up in an irregular manner, the Gem Dior collection that debuted two years ago can in fact be said to be one of Dior Joaillerie creative director Victoire de Castellane’s most imaginative creations. The geometric motif is her nod to many things: uncut stones, for one, as well as the fabric swatches Christian Dior assembled on chart boards in his atelier. Now, the collection welcomes 14 new bracelets and rings: all‑gold designs (choose from white, yellow or pink gold) that come stone‑free or with the occasional injection of a diamond‑paved bar alongside plain ones. The effect is at once industrial, lively and youthful. For those who want to up the sparkle, there are also fully paved white gold options.

This article first appeared in the May 2023 Rock ‘N’ Roll Edition of FEMALE