Jar stands for Joel Arthur Rosenthal, one of the most influential jeweller in contemporary times. Having formerly worked for Bulgari, the Paris-based American designer is known for imaginative designs that make use of antique gemstones, natural pearls, coloured gemstones that were once neglected in high jewellery, as well as unorthodox materials like aluminium, bronze and titanium. The pieces on show include his lightweight, softly curving rose petal aluminium earrings (pictured) and statement brooches.

Aluminium and gold earrings 

Brooch with diamonds, tourmalines, garnets and emeralds

Ear clips with sapphires, emeralds and diamonds 

A family business that’s over a century old, Mumbai-based Bhagat is helmed by fourth-generation head Viren Bhagat. His two sons Varun and Jay are also part of the business, which produces just 60 pieces of hand-crafted jewellery a year. The company’s calling card is a fresh style of Indian jewellery that celebrates both tradition and modernity. One of its signatures is the setting of flat, slender, custom-cut diamonds in minimal metal so the stones appear to be floating. Standout pieces on show include ruby and diamond earrings, as well as a pair of intricately set diamond bracelets.

Platinum ear clips with 16.92 carats of diamonds and 11.46 carats of rubies  

Platinum bracelets with diamonds amounting to 49.05 carats 

The history of Munich-based brand Hemmerle goes back to 1893, when two Hemmerle brothers took over an established goldsmith business whose clients included the Bavarian royal family. In 1995, it entered a new era when Stefan Hermmele and his wife Sylveli took the reins. Hemmerle’s style is bold and sculptural, and is heavily influenced by contemporary art. The jeweller is known for its use of unusual materials such as copper, bronze, aluminium wood, as well as moonstones, brown diamonds, agates and natural Bavarian horn. Watch out for a pair of drop earrings that are anchored by micro-mosaics dating from 1828 (pictured).

Bronze and white gold earrings with micro mosaics and 9.66 carats worth of aquamarines 

Silver and white gold earrings with dendrite agate and 15.79 carats worth of sapphires 

Aluminium and white gold earrings with diamonds amounting to 11.17 carats 

Founded in 2009 by Tzvika Janover and Elad Assor, Forms is a Hong Kong-based jeweller that stands out with intricate designs that are somehow also appear deceptively effortless. The entire team works together, using the finest gemstones to create modern works of wearable art such as a torque-style collar, earrings shaped like undulating wings, or shell-like openwork spiral earrings. The company creates less than 100 pieces of jewellery a year, and a high-jewellery piece can take up to a year to complete.

Platinum and stainless steel chokerRevival Vintage Jewels & Objects with diamonds totalling 15.31 carats  

White gold earrings with 11.78 carats worth of rubies and and diamonds amounting to 5.31 carats

Rose gold and bronze bangle with a 9.09-carat brown diamond and 0.75 carats of additional diamonds

This article first appeared in The Peak