The most significant change in the latest Royal Oak “Jumbo” models is the new self-winding movement, Calibre 7121. With a thickness of 3.2mm, the movement is slightly thicker than the previous Calibre 2121 (3.05mm), but the size of the watch itself remains unchanged with its very wearable diameter of 39mm and height of 8.1mm.

Finished with Geneva stripes and circular graining, the movement took five years to develop, with the greatest challenges lying in making the movement more efficient and easy to use despite its slenderness. The 16202 now has a longer power reserve of 55 hours instead of 40 hours, thanks to a larger mainspring barrel. The rotor can now be wound bidirectionally, which means that the watch should run for longer with normal wear.

Lastly, the movement finally has a quick-set date function.

The new collection includes models in four metals — steel, yellow gold, pink gold and platinum. Retaining the dimensions of the 15202, the new Royal Oak Jumbo features the model’s signature mix of polished and brushed finishes, as well as Petite Tapisserie dial engraving (except the platinum model).

What distinguishes them are the dial finishes. The steel model, like several other Royal Oak models, features a dial finishing directly inspired by the original Royal Oak of 1972. Originally developed by Geneva-based dial-maker Stern Freres, the colour Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50 (“night blue, cloud 50” in French) was originally obtained by immersing the dials in a galvanic bath.

Now, this colour is achieved at Audemars Piguet via physical vapour deposition for a more even finish.

Mixing the Petite Tapisserie dial pattern with new smoked hues, the pink gold model features a smoked grey face while the yellow gold has a smoked yellow-gold finish. Both colours are achieved through galvanic bath, while the smoked effect is created by spraying coloured varnish onto the rim of the dial.

The platinum model and its smoked green dial, on the other hand, stay true to the 15202PT version that was launched last year as an exclusive to AP Houses (the brand’s special concept spaces). The striking green hue is achieved by the addition of green colouring to the protective varnish applied to the dial, which is further distinguished from the other dials with its smooth finish.

As if the Royal Oak Jumbo models wouldn’t already be in extremely high demand, AP has gone to make them even more desirable by kitting them out with oscillating weights that pay tribute to the 50th anniversary of the Royal Oak: The 22K gold rotor features the “50 years” logo and an engraved brand signature. The colour of the rotors is matched to the colour of the case. Now, the only challenge is getting your hands on one.