#1: Baume & Mercier Clifton 1830 Five-minute Repeater Pocket Watch
This is the latest and final limited-series timepiece introduced by the Swiss luxury watchmaker in celebration of the company’s 185th anniversary. Inside its 18K red gold case is a hand-wound Calibre D73 mechanical movement made by specialist movement maker, Dubois Depraz. Its signature function is a five-minute repeater, which chimes the time to the nearest five minutes, when activated by a trigger located near four o’clock. Only 30 will be made and each comes with a leather strap.
#2: Jaeger-Lecoultre Geophysic True Second
What makes the Jaeger-LeCoultre unique is its execution, with a full second hairspring positioned near the central axis point of the movement. This additional spring allows the calibre to not lose any amplitude, despite the enormous energy it takes to make the second hand jump 60 times
#3: Van Cleef & Arpels Extraordinary Dials Collection Lady Arpels Oiseaux Enchantes
For the first time, the engraving on gold or hard stone marquetry is combined with the rare technique of miniature feather art. Each of the three limited edition Lady Arpels Oiseaux Enchantes watches displays the finesse of Nelly Saunier, the feather artist who creates three-dimensional birds with shimmering natural plumage. In her deft hands, the crimson Cardinal Carmin comes alive against jade, variscite and blood jasper; the violet Colibri Indigo hummingbird hovers over lavender jade, lepidolite and variscite; and the cyan Martin-Pecheur Azur kingfisher (pictured) flies over turquoise and lapis lazuli. In a limited edition of 22 pieces each.
#4: A. Lange & Sohne 1815 200th Anniversary F.A. Lange
This special edition commemorates the brand’s founder, Ferdinand Adolph Lange, who was born 200 years ago. It might be a basic time-only watch, but its finishing is exquisite. The genteel, easy-to-read dial has a grained surface, akin to those found on vintage marine chronometers. Its case is cast in the brand’s proprietary honey gold, which is a lighter shade and harder (thanks to silicon mixed into the metal) than conventional yellow gold. Only 200 will be made and individually numbered.
#5: Montblanc Heritage Spirit Perpetual Calendar Sapphire
The 39mm red gold timepiece has a tinted sapphire crystal dial that shows off the complex inner workings of the perpetual calendar mechanism. Able to keep correct date till the year 2100, the base movement for the watch is the robust ETA 2892, while the module is made by complications specialist Dubois Depraz.
#6: Piaget Limelight Stella
This is the brand’s first complicated watch made exclusively for women. The 36mm pink gold oval case is decorated with 126 brilliant-cut diamonds and the moonphase disc is a deep blue with a realistic depiction of the moon, along with stylised constellations. This high-complication tracks the current phase of the moon in the lunar cycle, indicating if it is a new, full, half or quarter moon. To top off the sky-tracking theme, the counterweight of the second hand is a star.
#7: Vacheron Constantin Historiques Cornes de Vache 1955
This is a contemporary interpretation of Reference 6087, an iconic model created by Vacheron Constantin in 1955. It was the first water-resistant and anti-magnetic chronograph presented by the Geneva manufacturer. Forward to 2015 and the heritage-chronograph dial design is a welcome blast from the past, enabling a rare insight into the brand’s sporty heritage. The new case is also a throwback to its 38.5mm size but, this time, made of platinum. The deep, distinctive blue for the indexes and leather strap is a fresh take on a vintage-inspired watch. Inside the Historiques Cornes de Vache 1955 is the Calibre 1142 in-house hand-wound movement with 48 hours of power reserve. Features include the chronograph with dual subdials (small seconds at the nine o’clock position and a 30-minute counter at three o’clock).
#8: Officine Panerai Radiomir 1940 3 Days Automatic PAM00620
This is the first automatic watch in the Radiomir 1940 collection that comes in 42mm. Thanks to the manufacture calibre P.4000, with its oscillating weight mounted off-centre and integrated in the movement, the thickness of the case is just shy of 11mm. The case of the new Radiomir 1940 3 Days Automatic is made from AISI 316L stainless steel, a metal particularly resistant to corrosion, and is water-resistant to 100m. Extra visibility is ensured by the use of the special Grade A Superluminova, the luminous substance applied to the markers, which provide legibility for about 35 per cent longer than the standard type.
#9: Cartier Grand Complication Set – Mysterious Double Tourbillon, Astrocalendar and Minute Repeater Tourbillon
The maison releases a limited-edition box set featuring three standout watches, each said to exemplify Cartier’s watchmaking identity. The Mysterious Double Tourbillon, which has a rotating tourbillon at the heart of the watch; the Astrocalendar, which features a complex calendar system that can differentiate between a normal year and a leap year; and the Minute Repeater Tourbillon (pictured), which combines the flying tourbillon with a minute repeater. All three timepieces are presented in the Rotonde de Cartier case, and have dials decorated with rich blue flinque enamel. The Grand Complication set is presented in a lacquered mahogany box and only five sets will be made.
#10: IWC Portofino Hand-Wound Day & Date
Its dial design is a study in restraint and balance. The impressive eight-day power reserve is indicated on the left, with a day-indication on the right. A second-hand disc is at six o’clock, and completing the complicated picture is the outsized date display at 12. Available in stainless steel or gold, both versions feature leather straps created in collaboration with Italian shoemaker Santoni.
#11: Roger Dubuis Excalibur Spider Pocket Time Instrument
For its 20th anniversary, Swiss brand Roger Dubuis is celebrating a year of Astral Skeleton design. One of the four new models unveiled as part of the collection includes the Roger Dubuis Excalibur Spider Pocket Time Instrument. The Excalibur Spider Pocket Time Instrument is a titanium pocket watch regulated by four balance wheels. It can be carried in the pocket with the accompanying titanium chain, or converted into a desk clock, suspended from a large openwork stand. The 60mm case is a combination of titanium in a natural finish and contrasting black-coating. And as is typical of the Excalibur Spider line, the bow of the pocket watch has been skeletonised, along with the chapter ring of the dial. Only 28 pieces are available.
An adapted version first appeared in 24:7 December issue.