The Italian label is known for designs with classic va-va-voom factor. Its latest Mvsa high jewellery collection is just as striking, but more contemporary. The division’s senior director Giampaolo Della Croce shares what to expect.


More Modern Sensibilities “After our seductive Serpenti line, and Diva, which was big on glamour, we decided to go more geometric and architectural for Mvsa (or Musa, Italian for muse). The stones used are the main source of inspiration and every piece is designed to highlight their beauty. For instance, some of the pieces feature large stones in simple settings so that the gems are even more eye-catching. Our house codes remain: daring shapes and colours, and nothing too light or flat, but we’ve also adapted one-off pieces to create friendlier styles like the rubellite drop pendant.”

Bulgari High Jewellery New Take Glam 2Simple claw settings like on this necklace allow you to see more of the stones. 

A New Cut “The collection revolves around a new gem cut called the takhti, which means ‘tiles’ in Hindi and is a reference to the ones dotting the roofs of palaces in India. It came about after we attended the wedding of our gem supplier’s daughter, and her mother was wearing a traditional necklace of emerald beads that was breathtaking. We bought it from her and our supplier cut them, creating a shape that’s similar to the dome-shaped cabochon, but is actually a halved hexagon. (Because of this cut…) the stones are bigger, clearer and more intense in colour.”

Bulgari High Jewellery New Take GlamThe Mediterranean Hues necklace mixes takhti- and raw-cut gems for an organic look.


Gems from Jaipur “We source for our own stones instead of hitting international jewellery fairs, where vendors tend to focus on particular or commercial stones. For Mvsa, we headed to Jaipur, India, which is the place for amazing coloured gems like emeralds, amethysts, citrines and spinels. Sri Lanka is known for great sapphires and garnets, but even these tend to land in Jaipur.” 

Designs Meant for Stacking “(We have) some minimalist rings and bangles that can be stacked. They’re reminiscent of pieces we had in the ’80s, but are still a fresh way of accessorising. We also created them for male customers who buy jewellery for their other halves. Once they know which style suits best, they can keep buying variations – it’s a guaranteed formula.” 


Bulgari High Jewellery New Take Glam 1The pink gold bracelet with diamonds and citrine is meant for stacking.

This article was originally published in Female Oct 2014.