You Don’t Always Need A Star Designer
Two seasons sans a star creative director, yet the report card for Tod’s in-house design team remains a resounding “Yes, they can”. Tapping on and adding to the brand’s mastery of leather, this band of unsung heroes (they took a bow at the end of the show) turned out a modern, womanly collection of wardrobe staples and accessories with surprisingly trendy flourishes. Cue the super luxe take on puffer jackets and parkas, creeper-soled moccasins, and the brand’s own elegant take on the now-ubiquitous sock-boot and nano-sized bag. Word is that this could be a permanent arrangement. We have to say that we like this status quo.
Put Francesco Risso On Your Watch List
Marni’s new creative director last year, most people went, “Who?”. He had always been behind-the-scenes, lending his design chops most notably to Prada’s knitwear arm for a good decade. His
F/W ’17 debut for Marni has received mixed reviews (the most popular comments: that there’s too much going on, and that he needs time to hone his vision), but there’s also much that will appeal to new and long-time customers. Like the whimsical, abstract jewellery, or the psychedelic printed knits and tailored separates. So keep your eye on him, and give him time. In this age of quick-fire fashion musical chairs, it’s what we should all do more of.
Raf Simons Is The Man!
The Belgian’s gig as Calvin Klein’s chief creative officer is one giant reboot for the storied American label. For starters, there’s the new moniker for its runway line (a nod to CK’s headquarters in Midtown New York) and the refreshed logo by lauded graphic designer Peter Saville. Then there are the touches that Raf-philes would recognise in his F/W ’17 debut collection. These include the generous use of punchy colours, the gender-fluid silhouettes, and the intellectual irreverence he gives to the likes of Wall Street suits (sheathed in transparent vinyl) and varsity sweaters (a sheer, stocking-like fabric for the bodice). Which also means, on a larger scale, he’s helping to make American fashion great again.
This story first appeared in Female’s September 2017 issue.
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