There’s something about the new year that brings an undercurrent of anticipation. This feeling of potential and possibility becomes even more acute when you’re a recent graduate launching a namesake brand. Just ask the fledgling local designer Denise Yeo, who completed her degree in Fashion & Textiles at Lasalle College of the Arts last May and launching her first label this month.
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Her graduate collection, titled A Jester’s Act, drew inspiration from clowns and the theatre, evident in both exaggerated silhouettes and lush fabric combinations. Think Wonka with its whimsical approach to ornamentation. “Conformity reigns, and everybody loves to wear neutral colours,” says the earnest 24-year-old, who honed her skills assisting another young homegrown label, Closet Children, known for its experimental vintage doll-like garments and accessories. “Why not go bold, for bursts of colour and contrasting textures?”
Denise Yeo’s graduate collection is a maximalist’s dream and takes cues from clowns and the theatre.
It’s clear that playfulness, maximalism, and individuality are at the heart of Yeo’s debut label, Miao Atelier. She has gone by the quirky moniker Miao since she was 16, finding herself in a classroom with multiple Denises. No drone mentality here. The label is an extension of the ideas from that collection, she says. It launches on January 27 with a collection online at www.miao-atelier.com, consisting of 10 styles of jewellery, ranging roughly from $50 for a pair of earrings to $400 for a more ornate necklace.
Denise Yeo (above) goes by the moniker Miao, which is also the chosen name for her new label.
There are even faint glimpses of the clown, such as with a metallic choker that mimics the jester collar and features the iconic harlequin diamond shapes. The pieces, which she hand-assembles in her home studio, will be available in various materials, including acrylic, stainless steel, glass, and aluminium.
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Her decision to stick to accessories – for now – is a savvy one, citing the desire to start small and keep considerations of cost, labour, and waste in mind. Yeo, equipped with a diploma in business, believes it will serve her well in that arena. Still, beyond the sensible persona lies a fun-loving spirit with an appreciation of what fashion can do, simply and powerfully. “I really want to bring people joy,” she says, embodying just that in her cat-eye glasses, print-clashing ensemble, and upbeat nature. We can certainly get behind that sentiment.
Denise Yeo expands on her graduate collection for her debut label by creating jewellery with motifs such as the harlequin diamond.
Looking back, what kind of year was 2023 for your brand?
“It was a year dedicated to laying the groundwork and establishing the foundations for launching the brand. I focused on considering what I’d like consumers to feel and what factors would entice them to purchase a piece from me. Identifying gaps in the market was also crucial. Many individuals appear to shy away from colour, particularly in accessories, often opting for conventional materials. However, I aim to break away from this trend and offer fun, colourful alternatives.”
What takeaways have you learned that you will keep in mind moving into the future?
“Rest! I need to take the weekends off to think. Taking breaks, going for coffee, seeing friends – I can’t be creative all the time. During fashion school, I was working and studying seven days a week, from 8am to midnight. It was nine months of working like that, especially for the graduate collection. I asked myself, would I want to do that again? So the takeaway is to remember to rest, so I can come back stronger each time.”
Each of Miao Atelier’s designs is hand-assembled.
What can we expect from your brand in 2024? Tell us more about this new endeavour and why 2024 is the right moment for the brand to launch it.
“It will be the official launch of my brand and website. I’m starting small, focusing on accessories. I’ll be working with acrylic pieces that are custom-made and laser-cut, in addition to stainless steel and aluminium for lightweight designs. Some pieces will feature vibrant glass beads. For now, I am avoiding fabric-based items, considering factors such as labour, cost, and material waste. There are also many more ways to adorn oneself with jewellery – we only have one torso, but we have 10 fingers.
It feels like now is the right time for my brand launch as I’ve solidified my style aesthetically and figured out what I want to do. I’m putting the entrepreneurial skills I’ve picked up along the way to work as well. I’ve had side businesses since secondary school, starting with a blog shop selling small items. It wasn’t creative, but I just wanted to try starting something. It was a good learning experience.”
If you were to pick one word to encapsulate your feelings about the new year, what would it be and why?
“Hope! I hope for things to work out. The new year is always a fresh start. I’ll be taking along everything I’ve learned from all the mistakes I’ve made along the way. Less taking things too personally and more putting my energy into what I’m going to bring forward.”
The jewellery pieces from Miao Atelier are available in various materials, including acrylic, stainless steel, glass and aluminium.
Do you think this will be a ‘year that asks questions’ or a ‘year that answers’ for the brand?
“Answers. When I release products, I’ll be able to see what people actually like. When people start buying things, I’ll know more. I can study the consumer profile. I have a feeling they’ll be from creative industries, but I’m hoping there will be those who aren’t too. Perhaps people who want to try a little more color. After all, it’s easier to try on a hot pink earring than a hot pink top! I can think about what I want the brand to say, but what about everyone else? It’ll be interesting to see people take elements of the brand and rewrite the stories themselves.”
What do you think is the general mood facing the homegrown fashion industry in 2024?
“Careful, maybe? A lot of businesses that start up here fail by growing too fast too quickly, facing issues with manufacturing, outsourcing, and others. Being in Singapore, there aren’t many indie designer brands with brick-and-mortar stores to reach their audience. It’s challenging in terms of clothing culture as well; people don’t often make bold fashion choices. So, I’m thinking a lot about how to encourage that and make it more accessible.”
ANSWERS HAVE BEEN EDITED FOR BREVITY AND CLARITY.
