A discerning observer perusing reels of #GRWM and #FitCheck content across platforms such as TikTok and Instagram would undoubtedly detect a distinctive trend in footwear. Envision sneakers, Mary Janes, and even sandals adorned with thick, bulbous soles, imparting wearers with the sensation of walking on air. These statement-making shoes, marrying whimsy with elements of Surrealism, come from the imaginative mind of Japanese designer Mikio Sakabe, founder of the footwear label Grounds.
The Grounds installation at Club 21 at Como Orchard features printed four-legged creatures wearing the brand’s shoes. This installation, exclusively created for the pop-up, is inspired by the concept of a body formed entirely by legs and feet, reflecting the brand’s main concept of “creating humans of the future, generated from having new relationships with gravity.”
Sakabe was in town last week, for the launch of Grounds and a special installation at Club 21 at Como Orchard. The event showcased the label’s Spring Summer 2024 collection and runs until May 3. Among the offerings are the brand’s debut sandals and the ever-popular Jewelry sneakers, featuring transparent soles reminiscent of crystalline orbs.
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Also on offer are limited-edition hues of the Moopie Mary – a coveted style reportedly the brand’s most sought-after in Tokyo – characterised by a mesh upper juxtaposed with towering rubber bubble soles, reaching a height of approximately 7cm. Think of it as wearing shoes that stepped on a giant gelatinous substance.
Such audacious concepts may perhaps epitomise a transcendent sense of chic inherent in Japanese fashion. In an interview with Highsnobiety, Sakabe remarked: “I feel curious – why don’t they wear good clothes in Europe? It’s the centre of fashion there, but you look at them in the street and: no good clothes!”
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Sakabe’s own trajectory in fashion is marked with distinction as he graduated at the top of his class from the Fashion Department of the Royal Academy of Arts in Antwerp. In 2007, he launched his eponymous clothing brand, debuting at Paris Fashion Week.
Besides Grounds, Mikio Sakabe (above) also runs his eponymous clothing brand and operates a fashion school in Japan.
Venturing into footwear in 2019 with Grounds, Sakabe has since moved to senpai territory for new-gen Japanese fashion designers, nurturing a cadre of emerging talents including Keisuke Yoshida and Akiko Aoki. His Me School, opened in 2019, endeavours to cultivate and empower fledgling designers with a creative ingenuity and business acumen through its programmes.
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In an interview with FEMALE, Sakabe offers insights into the influence of Japanese streetwear and its idiosyncrasies, and explains how his footwear designs seamlessly encapsulate this spirit.
What sets Grounds sneakers apart amidst the plethora of sneaker launches?
“Our approach sets us apart. Originating from and deeply inspired by Tokyo, Japan, our brand strives to embody an ‘exaggerated’ essence. Our footwear, notably, showcases bold shapes and a daring aesthetic. Drawing inspiration from everyday individuals – whether encountered on the streets or spotted on platforms like Instagram or TikTok – we endeavour to explore the intricacies of real lives and styles. This approach resonates deeply with Japanese culture, where a penchant for exaggeration is evident in various aspects of our lives, from Japanese cartoons to gaming.”
Grounds is now stocked at Club 21 at Como Orchard.
What, in your view, distinguishes the Japanese footwear and streetwear scene from that of other cultures or countries?
“In the Japanese streetwear scene, one notable distinction from the global norm is the absence of a rigid hierarchy. Unlike elsewhere, where high fashion brands such as Gucci and Prada are often distinct from fast fashion counterparts like H&M, in Japan, there appears to be less demarcation between expensive, affordable, and even second-hand items.”
What inspired you to introduce sandals for the first time with this collection?
“It’s quite intriguing because the concept of creating sandals has been on our radar since the inception of the brand. However, we opted to kickstart our journey with sneakers initially. Thus, it’s only now that we’ve embarked on crafting sandals. It’s not a completely novel concept for us, but rather a long-awaited opportunity to execute it. Given our brand’s emphasis on platform design, integrating the platform sole into sandals posed a unique challenge. Ensuring the correct balance and movement of the shoes proved to be trickier with platforms compared to flat soles. While crafting flat sandals is relatively straightforward, incorporating platforms requires meticulous attention to walking comfort. Hence, it took us some time to refine our approach before finally introducing the sandals.”
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What aspect of the new collection excites you the most?
“I’m particularly thrilled about the sandals. As Grounds footwear gains increasing popularity across Asia, particularly in regions with warmer climates, such as many countries in Asia where summer-like weather prevail over colder weather, we saw an ideal opportunity to introduce our sandals as the quintessential summer shoe. This notion heavily influenced my designs for this season.”
Could you elaborate further on the innovative design approach behind your latest model, Oyster, which integrates the outsole directly into the shoe?
“The creation of Oyster posed one of the most challenging tasks for us because it essentially transforms the sole into the upper of the shoe. Since the inception of Grounds, I harboured the concept of merging the outsole with the upper. This integration has been a significant aspect for me to explore. Typically, shoes feature a distinct separation between the sole and upper, especially in sneakers. I aimed to defy this conventional approach and birthed the idea of Oyster.”
The new Oyster model goes reinvents the typical Grounds platform shoe by merging the thick bubble outsole with the body of the shoe.
How do you navigate the dynamic shifts within the fashion industry to stay ahead of trends while preserving the distinctive aesthetic and identity of Grounds?
“In my daily life in Tokyo, I enjoy observing people’s preferences in terms of what they want to purchase and what they don’t. I notice that interests constantly evolve, particularly when I walk the streets and observe what people are wearing. My inspiration primarily stems from Japanese street style rather than European fashion houses. This serves as the foundational element guiding my creative process.”
How do you anticipate the sneaker market evolving in the near future?
“It’s definitely going to get bigger. That’s a constant topic of discussion within our design team – how the sneaker market is poised for even greater growth in the future.”
As the founder of your own design school, why do you believe it’s essential to mentor the next generation of designers?
“I believe there’s an abundance of untapped talent, but many aspiring designers lack the necessary skills and guidance. Additionally, many of today’s most influential fashion movements stem from the creativity of the younger generation. That’s why I find it rewarding to engage with and mentor them.”
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What inspired the shift from focusing on clothing and ready-to-wear to launching Grounds five years ago?
“In the fashion industry, the face has traditionally been the focal point of attention. I wanted to challenge this norm by shifting the focus to another part of the body. When a person wears exaggerated footwear, attention is drawn away from just the face, creating a more balanced visual appeal across the entire body. While the face remains significant, intriguing shoes offer a broader focus on the body as a whole.
Furthermore, the concept behind Grounds has always revolved around the connection between humans and the earth. I’m particularly fascinated by the dynamics of relationships, and creating footwear provided an opportunity to delve into the intricate relationship between humans and the ground they walk upon.”
Grounds’ mission as a sneaker brand is to forge a novel and poetic means of communication between the earth and humanity, says founder Mikio Sakabe.
What is your vision for the future?
“While European fashion houses are widely recognised, Asian designers often receive less attention, despite the abundance of talent. My aspiration is to establish Grounds as one of the leading fashion houses in Asia, alongside the renowned European maisons.”
